Arrival of my first tartan!

[AlabamaCelticLass]

I sew. I get it. Let us see the finished ensemble, please!

MaryPenny, do you sew 18th century women's clothing? I'm way behind on this project and trying to catch up. Having a real heck of a time trying to figure out this shift pattern I found and am using (http://www.sharonburnston.com/shifts_construction.html). Not really any pictures or diagrams showing her process, and I'm spoiled by modern patterns that explain step-by-step with illustrations, I suppose. The only historical clothing I've done is 1860s, so this is way different.

I decided to do a practice one first, before cutting expensive linen. I'm using an old bedsheet. I'm glad too, because I've made a mess of it. I'm almost done and it will just have to do for this weekend, but if I could find a better pattern or just get help understanding this one, it would be great!

[Pleater]

What is puzzling you about the shift pattern?

My 'thing' is English smocks but I might be able to help.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[AlabamaCelticLass]

What is puzzling you about the shift pattern?

My 'thing' is English smacks but I might be able to help.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

Where do I start?? LOL!

I'm used to modern sewing and I've done a good bit of southern American Civil War costuming, which is pretty modern too since they had sewing machines in the 1860s (and I used modern patterns like Simplicity, etc.)

I had to figure out what a lot of the terms were that she was using, like gores, running-back stitch, placket, etc. I also was not familiar with gussets or stroke gathers and some of the hand-sewing techniques. I guess I'm spoiled by modern patterns providing quite a few diagrams... I'm a bit of a visual learner. And there were no pictures on her site of the construction process on an actual garmet. Oy.... I'm glad I did my first practice one on an old bedsheet, because it's a hot mess! I'd post a pic but you might think It's the first thing I've ever sewn

In all honesty... I got so frustrated I threw back a shot of whisky and just ran it through the machine to get it done. haha

I'm totally new to acutally sewing 18th c. garments. I've been doing as much research as possible. My husband and I are going to a ren fair this weekend so I'm just doing what I can to get through that, even though it will lack much historical accuracy. Hope to have that fixed by Oct. for the Stone Mountain Highland Games. I will try to attach the pictures the maker of that shift pattern sent me yesterday.

[Elizabeth]

That is a beautiful shift pattern. For right now I would be tempted to just make a quick draw string neck peasant style shift out of a few yards of cheap thin cotton. I would not make it as full as most patterns show by taking a bit out of the width of the body and back. For a Renn Faire you would fit right in. Then you can take your time on the "real" garment and not be stressed out about it. It's always nice to have a peasant style shift in the wardrobe anyway.

[Elizabeth]

Here is the Google link to the search page for "chimise 1800's. There are several of the style I am talking about. Thay are slimmer fitting and the sleeves are not as poofy as most Renn Faire renditions.

https://www.google.com/search?q=chem...evid=525567391

[AlabamaCelticLass]

That is a beautiful shift pattern. For right now I would be tempted to just make a quick draw string neck peasant style shift out of a few yards of cheap thin cotton. I would not make it as full as most patterns show by taking a bit out of the width of the body and back. For a Renn Faire you would fit right in. Then you can take your time on the "real" garment and not be stressed out about it. It's always nice to have a peasant style shift in the wardrobe anyway.

Thank you for the link. Using Sharon's pattern, I made the first "practice" one out of an old bedsheet, and yes, it was enormous on me! Even when I reduced the width by 4 inches as instructed for wearers "less than 40 inches". At risk of my own embarrassment, here it is:

[Elizabeth]

Actually that is not awful! It could use a good pressing. I have never made a garment with underarm gussets but understand they can be a bit tricky. Also modern sheeting is a bit heavy for that type of garment... good for practice but may have made it more difficult as well.

Shifts/chemises were undergarments, never to be worn in public uncovered. They were worn to keep the stays/corset away from the skin to keep them cleaner and also worn as sleepwear. Over the stays would have gone a full coverage top, a laced top with a stomacher, or in our modern times a boned bodice. You probably know this but others might not.

I have recently gotten into "costuming" and am working on several different types right now. Will post pictures when I have something suitable for this forum. Big project right now is a pleated skirt made from re-purposed wool thrift store skirts. My version of upcycling!

[Mike S]

Cheers for posting this. I had wondered about the Celtic Croft Homespun fabric, and agree that it looks much nicer than I had expected, judging from your photos.

[Pleater]

That is some seriously good sewing in the images sent to you.

We are probably approaching the making of garments from opposite sides of the time line - at least there are patterns for shifts.

You might be able to use a zig zag stitch on the machine for joining the selvedges of the body and gusset - it would have been called a 'flare' in the North of England. Joining selvedges with hand sewing does make an almost invisible seam I have done a few when making kilts from unpatterned or striped fabric cut across the warp and hemmed, and the seam is almost undetectable.

[AlabamaCelticLass]

I have recently gotten into "costuming" and am working on several different types right now. Will post pictures when I have something suitable for this forum. Big project right now is a pleated skirt made from re-purposed wool thrift store skirts. My version of upcycling!

I look forward to it, I love seeing other people's sewing and costume projects!