Resizing a 5.11 TDK

[ratspike]

Yup, that's dead on. Doing it properly, and doing a good job, would be a decent bit of work. If you could find someone to do it the cost would almost definitely be more than the kilt is worth. I'd never discourage someone from tackling a DIY project, but this wouldn't be the easiest thing in the world to do, and do well.

[tundramanq]

HuDonald, I have 3 TDKs. One is a size 30 inch and fits perfectly unless I have a large meal. The other two are 32 inch and I use my 2 3/8 inch wide kilt belt to "snug them up" so that they don't rotate on my hips. It's handy to be able to loosen the belt a notch when I am at a "pig out" and be comfortable. Yes the belt loops are that large and the wide belt hides the excess fabric "rumples" very well beneath it. You may not really have a problem, if you have a wide kilt belt that fits in the loops. Give it a try and a look.

If you just got to take it in, I would suggest the first route, pressing the "dart" that was put in and not cutting the fabric. That way it is reversible if you should gain weight or find it too snug through the hips causing the pleats to splay out rather than drape cleanly. Kilts do not tolerate being tight though the bum at all. This TDK is tapered from hip to waist like all kilts but the taper is shorter and faster since it is worn lower at pants waist height not kilt height.

[HuDonald]

Thanks tundramang,

I have already bought all the necessary supplies for adding what's essentially cinch straps with velcro to be placed on both hips. That way, I'm not actually "altering" the kilt in any way, and everything is reversible. I designed it so it has 2" of max travel on each side, for up to 4" of max cinch (which is not necessary), 2-3" of comfortable easy adjustment.

I got 1.5" cotton webbing, loops, ladderlocks, and some color-matched velcro. I have it all pinned and marked up for how I want it done, and now I'm only waiting for my mother-in-law to sew it all up for me (since I don't own or know how to use a sewing machine).

The kilts have been sitting in her basement for over a month now... we're still wondering when she feels like doing it :-P
Patience...

[tundramanq]

She may have tangled with heavy weight Velcro before. The light weight Velcro isn't too hard to sew, but the tight weave nylon backing on the heavy Velcro want's to grab the thread as the machine sewing needle rises leaving loops, unlocked stitches and a rats nest on the bobbin side. I have to run thread tension almost to the thread breaking point to counter the backing "grab". Sticky back Velcro would be a total no-go in sewing down. I tried, once, and ended having to hand stitch. Pain is a great learning tool here.

[HuDonald]

Thanks for the heads up!! I don't think she had attempted yet, and she's relatively new to using a assewing machine well, so I'll let her know!!

The stuff I got was meant to be sewn on to uniforms, I think. Not adhesive backed. It's 1.5" foliage green Velcro...

So I hope that will work!

[tundramanq]

Thanks for the heads up!! I don't think she had attempted yet, and she's relatively new to using a assewing machine well, so I'll let her know!!

The stuff I got was meant to be sewn on to uniforms, I think. Not adhesive backed. It's 1.5" foliage green Velcro...

So I hope that will work!

Love Amazon!
Looked it up and you are good to go. Garment weight is easy to sew. I was concerned as it seems the wider Velcro is, the less likely the garment duty and non sticky Velcro is apt to be available in the sewing/hobby stores.

[ratspike]

That stuff is easy to sew, even on a home machine, and it probably won't require any tension adjustments. I'd use a size 16 needle though, either a regular sharp or jeans will be fine. The only annoying thing about velcro is that sometimes the hook side will tear up your thread, but otherwise it should be smooth sailing.

[ratspike]

I just noticed that you have ladderlocks, in which case you don't need velcro. The design of the buckle should keep the webbing nice and secure. I'd dump the cotton webbing and use nylon instead. 1" is perfect.

if you want to go with velcro then you want looplocs instead, in which case you can skip the webbing entirely and just use the velcro if you want.

[HuDonald]

Yeah, I thought about ditching the velcro. I know the ladderlock is there to bear the forces. Mostly, there'll be loop velcro in the back, and just a 1/2" section of hook velcro at the very end of the tab - it's just there to act as a tail-keeper. I just don't want a strap end flapping around.