Stabilizer help

[Charles Exton]

got a tad problem, noticed my some of the pleat stitching on my cameron kilt has started to come out, most likely due to no stabilizer, I'm confident enough in my sewing skills to undertake putting one in but i don't know the type of stiching or material needed, any advice would be brilliant

[Charles Exton]

the bit of stitching in the left corner of the lining is from a buckle adjustment

[The Wizard of BC]

The best reference for traditional kiltmaking is "The Art of Kiltmaking" by Barb Tewksbury. (See on the right banner)

Alternately you can see this thread.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...t=break+period

The material for stabilizer is anything that will not stretch. You don't want something thick like webbing. Many kiltmakers use broadcloth. This is like bedsheets or pillowcases.

There is no right or wrong way to stitch it but the thread you use should be something that will not deteriorate over time. Most use 100% Polyester thread like the Gutterman brand.

The concept behind the stitching is to hold the strip of stabilizer in place so it does not move around inside the kilt and to anchor it to the inside of the pleats. The only requirement is that your stitching not show on the outside of the kilt.

I personally use a stabilizer that has fusible glue on one side but that is only, and I stress only, to hold it in place while I stitch. Pins work just as well.
I also extend my stabilizer from outer apron edge to inner apron edge. I fell this gives some added strength to the apron fabric. Barb's stabilizer extends only from buckle tag to buckle tab across the back of the kilt and that works fine.

Then, you must insure that your straps and buckle tabs are sewn through the outer tartan fabric, through the interfacing and anchored firmly to the stabilizer. It does not matter except for aesthetics if you sew your straps and buckle tabs before or after you add the lining material as long as they are firmly anchored to the stabilizer strip.

[The Wizard of BC]

From your photo it appears that the white piece of fabric is not part of the internal construction but the lining.

[Charles Exton]

Then, you must insure that your straps and buckle tabs are sewn through the outer tartan fabric, through the interfacing and anchored firmly to the stabilizer. It does not matter except for aesthetics if you sew your straps and buckle tabs before or after you add the lining material as long as they are firmly anchored to the stabilizer strip.

this is a three buckled kilt, do I only do the first buckle (on each side) or all three?

[Charles Exton]

From your photo it appears that the white piece of fabric is not part of the internal construction but the lining.

I know it's the lining xD

[The Wizard of BC]

Charles, the third strap is superfluous. Today it serves no purpose other than bling. You always leave the third strap fastened loosely so it does not distort the Tartan fabric so should need no stabilizer.

In my Contemporary Kilts there are two stabilizers. A lower one for the third strap and buckle.

[Charles Exton]

duly noted, I'll make posts as I progress

[Charles Exton]

Work begins

and discovered, it already had a stabilizer, tho put in horribly



using abit of red linen for the new stabilizer

[Charles Exton]

Stabilizer finished