Kilts and Circular Sock Machines!

**marypenny** · 15th October 15, 07:32 AM

While attending Kilt Kamp last year, I remember how fascinating the sock knitter was. It especially interested my husband who is so very mechanically-minded. He was interested enough to investigate buying a machine until I explained what a learning curve was, (not really, he was well aware of that). We will simply hope for a new pair from my sister's knitting this Christmas or the next (or sometime in the distant future!)
Oh yes! There are two of us ready to sign up for Kilt Kamp 2016 if it's in Victoria again.

**KiltedKnome** · 22nd October 15, 07:28 PM

Originally Posted by marypenny

While attending Kilt Kamp last year, I remember how fascinating the sock knitter was. It especially interested my husband who is so very mechanically-minded. He was interested enough to investigate buying a machine until I explained what a learning curve was, (not really, he was well aware of that). We will simply hope for a new pair from my sister's knitting this Christmas or the next (or sometime in the distant future!)
Oh yes! There are two of us ready to sign up for Kilt Kamp 2016 if it's in Victoria again.

Dates have been announced, Mary Penny!

**okiwen** · 23rd October 15, 11:28 AM

I am reminded yet again how much I am interested in these machines. The "investment" is great, but the interest is greater.

**KiltedKnome** · 23rd October 15, 12:42 PM

Originally Posted by okiwen

I am reminded yet again how much I am interested in these machines. The "investment" is great, but the interest is greater.

Steve has three you can play with!

**Voussoir** · 26th October 15, 02:10 PM

Steve, when decreasing stitches for the diamond, the needle up on the carriage side wraps itself; the needle up opposite the carriage you will need to pull the thread bar between the last and 2nd needle forward and around the front to wrap it.
Increases are 1 up carriage side and 3 down opposite. This is the machine version of the German wrap stitch.

**The Wizard of BC** · 26th October 15, 03:12 PM

There are many ways to do the decrease/increase on a CSM. 1up/2down, 1up/3down, full wrap, Easy heel, and many more.
I personally like the full wrap method. I get fewer holes and a nice tight "bar" at the decrease edges.

On a CSM we do not have a carriage and non carriage side. I believe those are terms from flat bed knitting. As we are doing things in the round both side are the same.

**Voussoir** · 28th October 15, 11:35 AM

I should have said yarn carrier, not carriage.

I have knitted argyle and diced hose on an antique Creelman. What I'm trying to say is that when the diamond is decreased, it has 1 needle put out of work on both sides. The side the yarn is on will wrap itself around that last needle, or you can wrap the needle/stitch next to it; which will just leave a small float, but a nice tight join on the right side. The other side of the diamond will have a small hole. On the finished hose it looks like there are eyelet holes every other row on the color that is going to a point. The color getting broader will be just fine. The answer to that is to pull a bar between the stitches to the front and flip it over the final stitch knitted in that row. The result is no hole, no floats. Now I have to figure out how to do it on a Passap Duo 80.

**The Wizard of BC** · 28th October 15, 02:06 PM

Thank you voussoir.

I now understand what you were trying to say.

I do full wrapped heels as my normal heel and toe. So it just made sense to make my diamonds the same way. I do not have holes.

**Liam** · 1st November 15, 06:00 PM

Mrs. Liam and were at an antique sale today in support of our "Heritage Park". There was a vintage circular sock knitting machine on sale for $c125.00. Sorry no pictures as I didn't have a camera or smart phone with me.

**The Wizard of BC** · 1st November 15, 07:24 PM

It's strange Liam how many of these machines there are. Literally thousands of them were sold right around WWI. Most have never been used or used for a while and then delegated to the dust bunny lair in the back of the closet.

These machines have a huge learning curve. Most people need three or four months to learn how to use them.

To top if off some machines, especially the ones made during and just after the war were very poorly made. Cheap iron and early chrome plating. Many are just piles of junk today due to intergranular corrosion.

I would never suggest to anyone to buy an antique as a first machine and never until they already know how to use one well. You are usually fighting not only the learning curve but a machine which make not be in working order. You can't tell if it is you or the machine.

Even some of the sellers today are taking two or three different machines and bodgering them together. Slap on a coat of krylon spray paint and selling them for over $1000.00 simply because they are becoming popular. I bought my first machine over 10 years ago. Back then the average price was around $300.00.

At today's prices you can get a brand new Machine for not much more money. The new machines are tested and guaranteed to work. They usually come with a sock that was knit on it still hanging out of the machine.
The new machines are made with better materials and with computer aided tooling. Some are backed by some pretty impressive customer service.

So yea, even at that price, unless I knew what I was seeing and knew what to look for in an antique machine, I would not buy it. In 9 times out of 10 you have a very cool looking but very expensive door stop.