Outlander tartans: Questions

[Katia]

The concept of clan tartans began around 1800, some two generations after the events depicted in the Outlander series.

I had wondered about this while reading it, but wasn't sure if I was mixing up my history.

When did the modern style of kilt come into play? That was the other thing I wondered as I went, and forgot to look up.

Then they added coloured lines here and there to create different tartans for their various clans, which have nothing to do with the actual tartans of those clans, seems to me.

Which seems strange to me, because I recall Gabaldon describing different tartans (whether they were accurate to the actual clans she was writing about, I don't know, as I didn't bother to check it out at the time, and didn't want to find the specific pages again later-- though it was at least the Fraser tartan that this particular edition had on the cover jacket) and you would think they might make an effort; it's not like it's that difficult. (The clans would not be able to withhold permission to use their tartans for the show, right?)

[Dughlas mor]

There are others here who know much more than me, but to my knowledge there were few (if any?) recognized clan tartans at the time of the "45." The philabeg, or small kilt existed then, but the modern 8 yard, knife pleated kilt didn`t come into existence until at least a hundred years later, probably more. If you want to learn the history of kilts and tartan, first thing is forget about "Outlander."

[figheadair]

I had wondered about this while reading it, but wasn't sure if I was mixing up my history.

When did the modern style of kilt come into play? That was the other thing I wondered as I went, and forgot to look up.

Fixing the 'modern kilt' to a particular timeframe is a bit of a moving target and depends on exactly what you mean?

• Knife pleated.
• Fastened with one or more buckles.
• Pleated to sett.

If all the above apply then c1880-1890 is the rough timeframe.

Which seems strange to me, because I recall Gabaldon describing different tartans (whether they were accurate to the actual clans she was writing about, I don't know, as I didn't bother to check it out at the time, and didn't want to find the specific pages again later-- though it was at least the Fraser tartan that this particular edition had on the cover jacket) and you would think they might make an effort; it's not like it's that difficult. (The clans would not be able to withhold permission to use their tartans for the show, right?)

You're right, it's not that difficult to find examples of mid-18th century tartans, however, very few of them are used as clan tartans today. The commonly seen Fraser tartans are not amongst the list.

[freep]

There are others here who know much more than me, but to my knowledge there were few (if any?) recognized clan tartans at the time of the "45." The philabeg, or small kilt existed then, but the modern 8 yard, knife pleated kilt didn`t come into existence until at least a hundred years later, probably more. If you want to learn the history of kilts and tartan, first thing is forget about "Outlander."

I've not seen any philabegs or modern kilts on the show, they've all been great kilts. It's my understanding they wanted tartans but specifically didn't want clan tartans since as you note, there weren't any at that time. It's also my understanding the different tartans don't actually represent clans, they just didn't want everyone wearing the same to avoid the look of 'uniforms.' In the course of filming, the tartan costumes worn by various characters lent the names to the tartans they wear.

[figheadair]

It's my understanding they wanted tartans but specifically didn't want clan tartans since as you note, there weren't any at that time.

What's so sad, from an historical perspective, is that they chose to invent tartans using colours that were not typical of those favoured by mid-18th century Highlanders. This of course was not the only departure from traditional dress .

[OC Richard]

Yes sad, in a way, because there are quite a few paintings clearly showing the dress of that period which could have been used as "inspiration" for the show costumes.

As far as the colours go, of course they're simply appropriated from Reproduction/Weathered colours, and were chosen because they agreed with the muted earth-tone palette which had been chosen for the show. (Saying that the tartans were "invented" for the show is being generous in my opinion; in music, Hollywood calls it a "comp".)

In like manner a quite un-military tartan was chosen for Tunes Of Glory probably because of the brown tones which created a smooth overall effect with the khaki tunics etc.

But otherwise Tunes Of Glory followed military uniform (AFAIK) and Outlander could have followed mid-18th century Highland Dress.

[Katia]

• Fastened with one or more buckles.

If all the above apply then c1880-1890 is the rough timeframe.
.

It was a specific mention of buckles that was what made me realize she wasn't describing a great kilt. Other than that, I'm not sure there were details. (I only remember in the first place because it was within the past couple months that I've read it, and because the descriptions of clothing and such were the most interesting parts of the book, IMO {apologies to any Outlander fans}).

Then again, I assume it's not the accuracy of historical Scottish dress that is meant to impress in this book...

[DWFII]

It's my understanding they wanted tartans but specifically didn't want clan tartans since as you note, there weren't any at that time. It's also my understanding the different tartans don't actually represent clans, they just didn't want everyone wearing the same to avoid the look of 'uniforms.'

Pretty sure that in the film at least Jamie is determined to be "marrit" in a Fraser tartan. Not sure where exactly he gets it..maybe Murtagh?...but I do seem to remember a scene in the stables(?) where he remarks on it.

FWIW...

[freep]

To take an example from a slightly different genre of film, since the invention of moving pictures the depiction of Native Americans has been lamented long and loud by both Indians and Whites and with very good cause. The use of non-Native actors for Native characters has been condemned, also with good cause. So a movie comes along that employs Native American actors in appropriate roles, portrays a compassionate and reasonably historically accurate view of 1860s plains Indian culture and lifestyle. It is lauded as the best movie ever depicting Native/White interaction. At first. Then a couple years down the pike the criticisms creep in--this guy wouldn't have worn that color shirt, that guy didn't have the right beadwork, the other guy doesn't have the right uniform buttons, and my favorite: the actor in the lead role is not a Lakota but an Oneida and he's Canadian, not even an American!

C'mon.

We're all humans, as such we make mistakes. It's my thought that "Dances With Wolves" was the best, most sensitive and accurate movie about Native Americans to date. Did it have problems? Yes, with history, culturally and with regard to casting. The fact remains that it was a huge leap forward in the genre and paves the way for even greater accuracy and sensitivity in making such movies in future. I see the Outlander books and films in the same light.

Yes, in the Outlander series there are errors here and there, the lead actor is not a Highlander, various things aren't historically correct, the argot is not exactly that of the time (though I wonder what sort of original sources we might have for what a Highland accent sounded like in 1743), and so on. But it would seem to me that in light of many films portraying Scottish history this one is a step forward. They tried pretty hard and did a lot of things in an attempt at authenticity that could have been done much more inexpensively had they not. Again, not perfect, but a step in the right direction. Perhaps a little forbearance is in order when considering such moves in the correct direction and gentle correction rather than outright condemnation.

As a parthian shot, I'd note that not a one of us was actually on the scene in the mid-eighteenth century, many of the original sources are of suspect authenticity and/or accuracy and we'll never truly know what it was like to be a Scotsman during the Jacobite rising of '45. The best we can do is our best scholarship and that is not always perfect.

[MacKenzie]

This thread certainly has lead to some interesting readings. One of which was (again) Matt Newsome's, The Early History of the Kilt.

http://www.albanach.org/articles.html

Two excerpts from the article (the bold is mine):

Another document from this period that is very often cited as describing a kilt is George Buchanan’s history of Scotland published in 1581. He describes the Highland dress this way:

Their ancestors wore plaids of many colours, and numbers still retain this custom but the majority now in their dress prefer a dark brown, imitating nearly the leaves of the heather, that when lying upon the heath in the day, they may not be discovered by the appearance of their clothes; in these wrapped rather than covered, they brave the severest storms in the open air, and sometimes lay themselves down to sleep even in the midst of snow.

This document attests to the rugged constitution of the Highlander, and the fact that the plaids were used as protection from the elements and a form of camouflage as well as a mode of dress.

By the 16th century, when we begin to see the earliest type of kilted garment (the belted plaid), tartan had become characteristic of Highland Dress. Gaelic speaking Highlanders wore tartan of bright and flashy shades to show off wealth and status. They also favoured darker, natural tones that would emulate the shades of the bracken and the heather so that they might wrap themselves in their plaids and be hidden. But the colors chosen had more to do with what dyes were available to them (either locally or that they could afford to import) and personal taste than any clan affiliation.

One has to wonder if these darker, natural, earthy tones persisted through the mid-18th century and beyond. And, even though the brighter colors were available, were preferred/favored by some just as the reproduction/weathered tartans are today.