Question Regarding Hemming a Kilt with a Join

[Arnot]

I am currently working on a kilt that will have a hem. I am using double width fabric so there will be a join. Is there any special technique to reduce the thickness of the hem at the join? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

[Barb T]

What is the weight of the tartan? If it's 10 or 11 oz., just do the join and make the hem. The bulk won't be noticeable.

[Arnot]

Thanks for your reply, Barb. The tartan is 13 ounce. I got swatches in this and the lighter weight, but 13 ounce was preferred. Does this change your advice?

[Barb T]

It should be fine - just press the dickens out of the seam itself before putting in the hem, and press that little section of the hem well before basting the pleats. That way, nothing should ghost through. You might also grade the part of the seam that will be inside the hem before stitching the flat felled part - there won't be any stress on it, and you can trim the inside piece back quite a lot before enclosing the raw edge.

Also - if you think you're never going to take the hem out, you don't have to do a flat felled seam inside what will be the hem - just stitch the main join seam, cut perpendicular to the seam at the level of the hem, and, below that, fold the seam open and press it well before putting in the hem. Press that part well before basting the pleats. That will also reduce the bulk.

[Arnot]

Many thanks, Barb. You have been very helpful. You are really helping me fill my bag of kiltmaking tricks.