Quote Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC View Post
Sean, just a note if you don't mind.

The buckle tabs are not attached to the interfacing. The tabs are sewn through the outer Tartan fabric, through the interfacing, and fastened to the stabilizer.

It is the stabilizer that gives the kilt its horizontal strength. The interfacing gives the garment vertical stiffness and shape.

The reason we cut away the pleats behind the Fell is to reduce the amount of fabric in the area of the back where we sweat. This bulk is often seen on less expensive kilts and is nicknamed 'pillow butt'.

All of these things work in harmony. They are the hallmarks of a Traditional Style Kilt. There are valid reason we do them. There have been many, very smart, talented kiltmakers over the years who have worked out what a kilt needs to fit well, swish marvelously, and to last a lifetime. The true value of ToAK is that you have at your fingertips the accumulated knowledge and wisdom of all of those who have gone before. Learn from their experience. If there is one thing I have taken away from Barb it is that, in the long run, doing it right, is less expensive than cutting a corner trying to save a dollar or an hours work up front.

All of those other things that we talk about, and give the impression are so important, like how much fabric is used, the weight of fabric or how it is stitched, are minor points of aesthetics.
Thanks for the coprehensive reply... as ever very insightfull. I get what you say and agree although I maybe didn't explain myself very well on the last post. Yes, the tabs that hold the buckle are attached through all layers including the stabalizer. The sentence about the interfacing was directed at the leather straps attached to each apron. On my purchased kilt these are only sewn to the tartan and not to the tartan and interfacing on the aprons.