Tartan Challenge

[figheadair]

The piece is approximately 89 x 40 inches. So what does this tell you/what can you see?

[MacGumerait]

Given the length and width , the large sett ... and that it was joined in an " offset " manner , could this fabric have been a " great kilt " ?

[figheadair]

Given the length and width , the large sett ... and that it was joined in an " offset " manner , could this fabric have been a " great kilt " ?

The simple answer to that or course is that we will never know. It could have been but 40 inches is a tad narrow for a belted plaid and I'm inclined to think it was used differently.

Here's the techy bit.....

• Hand spun and hand woven at 52 epi.

• 20” single width offset with 2 half setts plus G16 R6 G4 R92 plus a 4 band herringbone selvedge mark.

• Naturally dyed: cochineal (red), indigo (blue), plus indigo and an unidentified yellow (green).

• The piece is the remnant of a larger plaid.

• The yarn used to initial and date the cloth differs from that of the actual plaid and indicates that the personalisation was done later than the weaving; i.e. the cloth is older than 1785. I suspect that the skilful overlocking at the fringed ends was done at the same time as the initials and date were added.

• The initials JS probably refer to the owner of the plaid in 1785. Generally initials were feminine and such pieces were done to mark a special occasion. These were often dowry pieces done by a women for their marriage and was something special that they brought to the new home.

[Orvis]

The simple answer to that or course is that we will never know. It could have been but 40 inches is a tad narrow for a betled plaid and I'm inclined to think it was used differently.

Here's the techy bit.....

• Hand spun and hand woven at 52 epi.

• 20” single width offset with 2 half setts plus G16 R6 G4 R92 plus a 4 band herringbone selvedge mark.

• Naturally dyed: cochineal (red), indigo (blue), plus indigo and an unidentified yellow (green).

• The piece is the remnant of a larger plaid.

• The yarn used to initial and date the cloth differs from that of the actual plaid and indicates that the personalisation was done later than the weaving; i.e. the cloth is older than 1785. I suspect that the skilful overlocking at the fringed ends was done at the same time as the initials and date were added.

• The initials JS probably refer to the owner of the plaid in 1785. Generally initials were feminine and such pieces were done to mark a special occasion. These were often dowry pieces done by a women for their marriage and was something special that they brought to the new home.

Peter, based on your comments above (that the initials are feminine and the piece is a remnant of a larger plaid) and based on the cloth's size, I'm going to guess that the piece was presented as a woman's tartan screen (or shawl), since the 1780's is probably too late for it to have been worn as an airisaid. Another guess would be that the piece could have been a bed-hanging.

[figheadair]

Peter, based on your comments above (that the initials are feminine and the piece is a remnant of a larger plaid) and based on the cloth's size, I'm going to guess that the piece was presented as a woman's tartan screen (or shawl), since the 1780's is probably too late for it to have been worn as an airisaid. Another guess would be that the piece could have been a bed-hanging.

Given the amount of red, and the general quality of the dyeing, this was a quality piece. Like so many pieces of this age we don't know what its original purpose was, if indeed there was just one. It could have been a screen but the weight is a little heavy, possibly a man's upper plaid, although the joined nature makes this unlikely IMO. I'm sceptical too about the whole arisaid concept, especially post-1700. More likely I think was intended for some form of domestic use such as bed hangings or possibly a bed cover.

I know that this has been handed down in a Perthshire family but the identity of the initials is currently unknown. When I have time there will be a full paper on the piece.

[Orvis]

Given the amount of red, and the general quality of the dyeing, this was a quality piece. Like so many pieces of this age we don't know what its original purpose was, if indeed there was just one. It could have been a screen but the weight is a little heavy, possibly a man's upper plaid, although the joined nature makes this unlikely IMO. I'm sceptical too about the whole arisaid concept, especially post-1700. More likely I think was intended for some form of domestic use such as bed hangings or possibly a bed cover.

I know that this has been handed down in a Perthshire family but the identity of the initials is currently unknown. When I have time there will be a full paper on the piece.

Peter, I will certainly look forward to your paper regarding this piece. I think your guess as to its possibly being a man's upper plaid is interesting. Belted plaids were still being worn in the days just after the Disarming Acts were repealed, as were philabegs. Men who wore philabegs out in the open (herders and the like) would probably have needed an upper plaid to keep warm/dry. I seem to remember that you once noted that tartan which was woven off-set and had selvedge marks/herringbone selvedge was meant for plaids. Due to the diminutive width of this joined cloth (40 inches), I think you are right in supposing it to have not been for a man's belted plaid, but I think it would have (before its length was cut down) worked perfectly as an upper plaid, in addition to the later feminine/household uses we have also ascribed to it.

Of course, I have no way of proving any of this, so these are just some thoughts.