2 vs 3 buttons?

[McBarnacleBill]

I recently acquired a Prince Charlie jacket and vest. The jacket fits fine, except the sleeves are too long. I took it to a seamstress to have the sleeves shortened. Turns out that they are so long, that to shorten them to the proper length, would eliminate one of the three cuff buttons. She is exploring possible ways to move the button, but was not too encouraging that that would be a possibility. My question is: would eliminating one of the buttons, constitute a major faux pas, or would it be acceptable? I would only be wearing the jacket to formal or semi-formal, civilian affairs. Thank you in advance, for any input.

McBarnacleBill

[The Wizard of BC]

The most common cuff and button treatment found on a Prince Charlie Coatee is what is called a "Braemer" cuff.

This is a placket of fabric which the buttons are mounted on. The placket may be flat or have creases similar to those on the "Argyle" cuff.


Photo courtesy of ScotWeb

When shortening or lengthening the sleeves you would normally move the placket up or down as necessary.

If the jacket you have does not have the placket you may simply remove all three buttons and move them up or down.


However, you may have the style of button where the button shank is put through the fabric or an eyelet sewn into the fabric and a washer and cotter pin installed inside to facilitate button removal prior to sending your jacket to the cleaners.

Unfortunately many places today do not put the button shank all the way through the jacket fabric and the interfacings and lining. You do not have access to the cotter pin for removal. This my require the tailor to un-stitch the small opening in a lining seam where the jacket was turned inside out when it was originally made. You just have to find that small opening.


BTW and for information only - these three jackets are the same with the single exception of the cuff treatment.


Photo courtesy of Burnett's & Struth catalog

[McMurdo]

As The Wizard says yes 3 buttons is most common, 2 would not be a major faux pas however, it should not be a big deal for the seamstress to move the placket with buttons if indeed you have that setup. One thing about Highland wear is that there is room for personal expression, within reason of course.

[OC Richard]

The issue wouldn't only be having only two buttons, it would also be in having an oddly-shaped cuff.

BTW in costume/military jargon that sort of cuff is called a "slash cuff", specifically a three-pointed slash cuff.

AFAIF slash cuffs have always had three points (if they have points at all) and at least three buttons (four is not uncommon) so two buttons would look odd to anyone familiar with military or Highland civilian fashion, I should think.

Yes the answer is to remove the cuff and move the whole thing up.

I did a thread about cuffs appearing on Highland jackets and their history:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...jackets-86929/

[Glen]

[QUOTE=OC Richard;1317955]

Yes the answer is to remove the cuff and move the whole thing up.


Having short arms, shorter than others in my family of the same stature, all my sleeves have to be shortened. My tailor has moved the slash cuff. She has had to move the cuff the full distance between two buttons when the button has been pushed through the sleeve...

[OC Richard]

What an array of Prince Charlies!

Outstanding.

On the cuff topic, I've noticed that sometimes Pakistani/Indian jackets have the slash cuffs placed rather higher than on traditional UK-made jackets. This looks odd to me, but is handy for those wanting to shorten the sleeves.

Here are early "Coatees" not long after their introduction. Note that the cuffs are placed at the bottom of the sleeves.



Here's a photo from the 1940s showing the same thing



Here's a modern PC, which I assume was made "overseas", having absurdly high cuffs. (Look at the top of the kilt, so odd with a wide waistband and belt loop visible.)

[Father Bill]

That last one's a weird looking outfit. Wouldn't be caught dead in it.

[JohntheBiker]

Strange indeed. He looks like he is wearing the kilt really low and the sporran chain suggest that his sporran is hanging down around his knees.

[ForresterModern]

That last one's a weird looking outfit. Wouldn't be caught dead in it.

Actually, Father, if you were in a coffin with the lower half lid closed, as long as they did not fold your hands across your chest, those cuffs might be reasonably well hidden. In which case, being caught "dead" in it might be putting it to its best use. And you would not be looking at it anyway. Anotehr way to look at things.

[Father Bill]

Actually, Father, if you were in a coffin with the lower half lid closed, as long as they did not fold your hands across your chest, those cuffs might be reasonably well hidden. In which case, being caught "dead" in it might be putting it to its best use. And you would not be looking at it anyway. Anotehr way to look at things.

You've got me there! Good thinking!