Problems with my Apron

**Sean Wilson** · 26th May 16, 12:50 PM

I've recently started my second kilt. The first one turned out OK but the over apron edge on the left side (the one with the strap hole) wasn't quite right... but I put that down to deviating from "The Art of Kilt Making" by Barbara & Elsie a wee bit ;-)

My second kilt, I was determined to stick religiously to the instructions to see if this cured the problem. I'm sad to say it didn't. I've been really pleased with the fit of both kilts, my pleating and so forth but again the left edge of the over apron will not lay right. I've checked everything over, processes, measurements etc. and all look OK.

I've tried to apply logic to how I can manipulate the fabric (16oz wool) to make the deep pleat look Ok but I just end up scratching my head.

I did put a small dart in the top of the deep pleat as per the book and then removed it hoping that would solve the problem. It didn't

I've posted some pics of me wearing it unfinished at the moment with the next step fitting the waist band.

Can any one help. I really don't know what I'm doing wrong. Hope these pics help...

Here's the problem with the deep pleat/apron edge

20160526_195222.jpg 20160526_195237.jpg

These are the good bits

20160526_195110.jpg 20160526_195146.jpg 20160526_195413.jpg

Help ..... !

**Pleater** · 26th May 16, 02:18 PM

The pleat is being rolled outwards, pushed by the inner fold being skewed. It is probably flat when laid flat, but when wrapped around and in 3 dimensions the pleat opens up.

When making a kilt for myself I have to pull the inner edge of the pleat up above the level of the top of the straight line of pleats, so there is a long narrow triangle of double fabric showing. That pulls the inner fold of the pleat towards the midline of the body and causes the pleat to close up.

If your kilt has that inner fold accessible you might be able to sew along it and draw up the thread to shorten it every few stitches, securing it with a back stitch and so pull the pleat into shape. You might need to increase the measurement across the lower edge of the fell to make more room as it sometimes tilts the small pleats forward a little

Anne the Pleater

**Adrian** · 26th May 16, 02:34 PM

The outer apron should open on the right not the left side for a mans kilt...from first glance...
Is your setting out right ?
I made my first one before Christmas, had some tuition in Scotland to get going...

**pbutts** · 26th May 16, 03:06 PM

Originally Posted by Adrian

The outer apron should open on the right not the left side for a mans kilt...from first glance...
Is your setting out right ?.

looks like a mirror image selfie.

**Carlo** · 26th May 16, 03:07 PM

Didn't help anyone :-)

**Sean Wilson** · 26th May 16, 11:59 PM

Originally Posted by pbutts

looks like a mirror image selfie.

You're right it's a mirror image selfie

**Sean Wilson** · 27th May 16, 12:04 AM

Originally Posted by Pleater

The pleat is being rolled outwards, pushed by the inner fold being skewed. It is probably flat when laid flat, but when wrapped around and in 3 dimensions the pleat opens up.

When making a kilt for myself I have to pull the inner edge of the pleat up above the level of the top of the straight line of pleats, so there is a long narrow triangle of double fabric showing. That pulls the inner fold of the pleat towards the midline of the body and causes the pleat to close up.

If your kilt has that inner fold accessible you might be able to sew along it and draw up the thread to shorten it every few stitches, securing it with a back stitch and so pull the pleat into shape. You might need to increase the measurement across the lower edge of the fell to make more room as it sometimes tilts the small pleats forward a little

Anne the Pleater

Thanks for the reply... I kinda get what you're saying.... I've pressed the pleats ready to apply the waist band but not the apron yet, would that help any?

**Adrian** · 27th May 16, 12:20 AM

Ah, could'nt understand why it looked wrong way round not into this selfie stuff...justed looked wrong...not seen that before...

more difficult to work out as a mirror image can you get a pic the right way round ?
What does it look like flat, what are the split measurements across the front apron both at waist at hips, might be a minor problem in sizing here ?
Is your spring pleat held in place and pleats basted ?
Do you ever go across to the coast might be able to help work it out ?

**plaid preacher** · 27th May 16, 06:38 AM

Originally Posted by Sean Wilson

Thanks for the reply... I kinda get what you're saying.... I've pressed the pleats ready to apply the waist band but not the apron yet, would that help any?

That was my first thought... that the pressing may pull things together, as the steam will help to skew the fabric.

I was hoping someone smarter might come along first ...as this is still a theoretical step for me.

**Sean Wilson** · 27th May 16, 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by Adrian

Ah, could'nt understand why it looked wrong way round not into this selfie stuff...justed looked wrong...not seen that before...

more difficult to work out as a mirror image can you get a pic the right way round ?
What does it look like flat, what are the split measurements across the front apron both at waist at hips, might be a minor problem in sizing here ?
Is your spring pleat held in place and pleats basted ?
Do you ever go across to the coast might be able to help work it out ?

Here goes...

This was the deep pleat right when I started, which looked OK.
20160510_182452.jpg

Then this is it with aprons fringed & faced off (finished)... which looks wrong in the photo the apron bottom doesn't look wide enough.
20160527_170119 (1).jpg

I unpicked the basting & tailor stitches that held the top of the deep pleat to the apron front and pinned it in different positions i.e wider apron bottom, different shape, narrower deep pleat etc but had no joy getting it to hang right.

Which is damn annoying because it fits like a glove everywhere else.

My waist=35" hip=38.5"

The split at the waist is: apron=18", pleats=17" AND Hip is: apron=18.75", pleats=19.75"

The sett is 5.75" and given the measurements I worked out I needed 31 pleats but this made each pleat on the narrow side so I went for 27 pleats at 5/8th of an inch at the waist tapering to 3/4's of an inch at the hip. This still gave e the same waist & hip measurements needed in the pleated area.

I just measured the waist hip and and both are bang on at 17" & 19.75" respectively. Aprons match the appropriate measurements too.

PS: The photos I posted earlier with me wearing the kilt are with the pleats but not aprons pressed and all the basting stitches removed from the pleats after pressing.

I've shaped the apron the same as the one that is fringed and that hangs fine and lines up with the pleats perfectly. I can only assume I've done something wrong with the deep pleat but can't see what and like I've said I've taken out the basting and re-pinned the pleat in various positions with no joy.

I'm really left scratching my head !!!!

PS: My parents live in Scarborough so I might take you up on that kind offer of a meet after I return from Spain... Oh how I'm looking forward to some sunshine next week - lol