Question regarding making a Kilt when the Waist is larger than Hips

**Barb T** · 28th June 16, 08:19 AM

When someone has a waist this big, a kilt looks best if it hangs straight down from the waist while at the same time snugging in a bit in the small of the back (i.e., having tapered pleats), because, even when someone has a belly, the buttocks will stick out in the back farther than the small of the back. TAoK suggests making the waist and hips the same when the waist is bigger than the hips (i.e., for your guy, 53 waist and 53 hips). Unfortunately, this doesn't allow any taper in the pleats and produces a kilt that is likely to look like a tilted cylinder, with the pleats not hanging straight down the side of the kilt (see photo below).

I've found that the solution is to add to the hip measurement in excess of the waist measurement (i.e., not make them equal). Below, you'll see the same guy in a kilt made with a hip measurement big enough to allow the apron to hang straight down from the waist. Not only does the kilt look better, but the guy looks slimmer!!

So, how much to add? The simplest way to figure this out is to roll a towel and put it under the belly to kind of fill the space. Be sure it's not sticking out past the belly, and don't wrap it around to the side. Measure around the hips again but around the towel in front as well. Then split the new hip measurement evenly with half the measurement in the apron and half in the pleats. This works well for any guy with a belly - doesn't have to be just for guys whose waists are bigger than their hips.

For some guys, I've had to add as much as 5-6" to the actual hip measurement to get the apron to hang straight in the front and have the pleats nicely snugged in to the small of the back.

**Arnot** · 28th June 16, 10:00 AM

This is great, Barb. Many thanks. One more question, if I may. Is there anything different about placing the hip strap/buckle after measuring using this method?

**Barb T** · 28th June 16, 10:13 AM

If you use one, you should put it on at the hip measurement you made the kilt to. But honestly? I would try to talk a guy out of a hip buckle if he had a large waist. In any event, what you do not want to do is put the buckle on where he could buckle it so that the apron pulled in under his belly (hence why you want to put the buckle on at the over-large hip measurement that you used for the kilt).

**Arnot** · 28th June 16, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by Barb T

If you use one, you should put it on at the hip measurement you made the kilt to. But honestly? I would try to talk a guy out of a hip buckle if he had a large waist. In any event, what you do not want to do is put the buckle on where he could buckle it so that the apron pulled in under his belly (hence why you want to put the buckle on at the over-large hip measurement that you used for the kilt).

Thanks, Barb. I thought it would be like this. I just wanted to be sure. I'd rather ask the question now than ask after I've messed up. Thanks again.

**Barb T** · 28th June 16, 10:23 AM

Sure! No problem.

**The Wizard of BC** · 28th June 16, 10:50 AM

I have also found it helpful when measuring kilts for guys like this to take two additional measurements as a backup.

Barb has already pointed out -
The aprons are made from a flat piece of fabric and hang straight down from the belly. All the shape of the kilt is in the rear.

Well, the apron edges are flared and if you will look at the third photo Barb posted above you should be able to see that the apron edge hangs straight down.

What I do is measure across the back - at the waist - from apron edge to apron edge.
Then
Measure across the back - at the hips - from apron edge to apron edge.

The difference between these two is the amount you need to taper the Fell.

If you do not have a kilt to take these two additional measurements you can use the side seam of a pair of trousers or even a door frame or other vertical edge. Just something to give you a vertical reference.

These two additional measurements do not need to be perfect. They are a back up or confirmation of the measurements you got using the pillow/towel method.

**Lady Grey** · 28th June 16, 02:16 PM

Thank you so much for this information.
I'm dealing with this exact problem at the moment. It will be a plain coloured wool or drill kilt (thankfully no plaid to worry about) I haven't cut anything at the moment. I had used the search function and learnt about "gut cut" and other terms but I wasn't happy with that solution as it would look awful on the gentleman. I'm waiting to get hold of him for a new set of measurements and I shall use this method. (Hopefully I can convince him to wear it at his waist not at his jeans waist)

Extra question... Is this method suitable for a more casual a box pleat kilt as well?