Jacobite Living History - My Impression

[CollinMacD]

Luke,

Thank you for all your input, like all the other posts, very interesting, and yes I have discovered getting the correct gear is extremely hard. My ancestor was a Captain in the Jacobite, so I would like to portray him, but obviously I have no visuals, so I need to go by the illustrations that I see in books and research, and most of that is very hard to distinguish what is what. Doing the ACW I had authentic uniforms that I could reference, and getting the wool was not difficult as (Charlie Childs in Paris, OH) could have wool woven to thread specifications, and made into broadcloth, (steamed and pressed wool that made it more of a cloth) than the brushed modern wool.

I got some good information and will improve with time just putting this impression together cost a lot. So, as I progress with this I will post, but for now this will due, and I promise I will improve.

So much to thing about, and getting who makes what is the most important thing, Who does authentic kilts and where can I get good plaids from the period? All of this I still am looking for. Peter MacDonald provided some good information about the history of plaids, but where do I get them at a reasonable price, and what is the weight 16oz, will 13oz work. so much to learn.

Thanks for all your input, that is how I learn...Collin

[Luke MacGillie]

We have our own version of Charlie or Ben T, and the others in this period, not producing tartan at present , but doing broadcloths, kersey, superfine and bays and all the other required wools, Kochan Phillips Historic Textiles is top dog, others like woolrich also have appropriate wools. The coat in my Avatar is made from Family Herloom Weavers cloth.

My belted plaid is made from 3 yards of Lochannon 18 oz double wide tartan. Will have another perhaps soon, if some of my friends can get it together and our order put in that will allow me to actually replicate a proper belted plaid.

[Mathew MacKillop]

While I have zero information to add to this, I did want to say a few things:

First, I think the costume looks great, even with the inaccuracies others have noted. I would never have noticed, myself, but the kit looks awesome nonetheless. I also commend the OP for wanting to get everything just right.

Second, it never ceases to amaze me how much people on this forum know about the kilt, its' history, and the history of things related to it.

Third, and finally, I am regularly impressed with the ability of most members here to take criticism constructively. We are spoiled here on X-Marks with the quality of our fellow Humans.

[CollinMacD]

While I have zero information to add to this, I did want to say a few things:

First, I think the costume looks great, even with the inaccuracies others have noted. I would never have noticed, myself, but the kit looks awesome nonetheless. I also commend the OP for wanting to get everything just right.

Second, it never ceases to amaze me how much people on this forum know about the kilt, its' history, and the history of things related to it.

Third, and finally, I am regularly impressed with the ability of most members here to take criticism constructively. We are spoiled here on X-Marks with the quality of our fellow Humans.

I agree, that is why I posted. You only learn through others.....who have gone there before.

[Orvis]

Allan,

I agree with what Luke said - there are lots of little details of 18th c. Highland dress that will occupy you for years! As far as hose cloth is concerned, I have always kept my eye out for woven twilled woolen cloth with the pattern in about one-inch or 1-1/2 inch squares. I agree that red/black or red/green Woolrich or Pendleton wool would be the best to start out with. The cloth should be fairly heavy (16 oz or above) so the hose will hold their shape and be comfortable on your feet. Avoid cloth that has been knapped (i.e., fuzzy), but go for cloth that has a hard finish. For my hose pattern a yard of double-wide cloth will give me two sets of hose if I do careful pattern layout and perhaps a little joining to extend pieces that need to go beyond the edge of the fabric. I use embroidery floss to sew my hose, but you could also strip away threads from the edge of the cloth to get threads. You should always cut your pattern on the bias to retain the stretch in the fabric.

When I was reenacting 18th c. Highland regiments, we use to get out red/white diced fabric from a local weaver (can't remember who). I also got some (with a black line along the edge of the red) from an Indiana weaver named Kate Henry years ago, but I don't know if she's still active. She also wrote a little book entitled "Baghose - the construction of" - her pattern is somewhat different from mine, and I don't know if she's still in business. PM me for her 10 year old address if you want it. There was also a sutler from Wisconsin who specialized in period fabrics that sold red/white (w/black line) hose cloth for about $40/yd, but I don't have his address. You might try doing a search...

From your description of your ancestor, Samuel, I'd guess that as a Captain in his clan regiment, he was a middling gentlemen, probably a tacksman. Since you want to portray a member of the Highland gentry, you might also consider making/obtaining a set of Highland tartan truibhs (trews), which were essentially a set of full-footed tartan leotards. There are a few people out there who make them.

As to buckles, there are lots of places to get period-correct 18th c. buckles. The thing to remember is that 18th c. sword baldricks were not of uniform width - I've seen them from 2" to 3-1/2" wide, in black, brown or buff color. Some have decorative needlework and folded-over edges, as well. You can search for 1720's portraits of two Grant gentlemen that depict what I'm referring to.

I agree that your progress to what you consider acceptable levels of authenticity will take you a long time and lots of cash. Unlike the Civil War (which had factory-produced uniforms using sewing machines and lots of photographic documentation), 18th c. research is a matter of finding and interpreting bits-and-pieces in books, portraits, letters, and other documents. Good luck with that! Peter's research papers are a good place to start.

Gerry

[Luke MacGillie]

Kate is no longer weaving. I saw her at an event in October and actually picked up the last piece of hose cloth she had.

William Booth Draper is now sold out of their hose cloth and has discontinued it from their line. That cloth left a bit to be desired, as you had to full it, otherwise the seams would pull apart. When you fulled it the red would bleed into the white and you ended up with pink and red diced hose.

The black line vs no black line argument has been going on for the last 30 years or more and make keeping all the recreated regiments and civs from having a steady source of fabric IMHO.

[figheadair]

Kate is no longer weaving. I saw her at an event in October and actually picked up the last piece of hose cloth she had.

William Booth Draper is now sold out of their hose cloth and has discontinued it from their line. That cloth left a bit to be desired, as you had to full it, otherwise the seams would pull apart. When you fulled it the red would bleed into the white and you ended up with pink and red diced hose.

The black line vs no black line argument has been going on for the last 30 years or more and make keeping all the recreated regiments and civs from having a steady source of fabric IMHO.

I've been approached by serveral groups about getting some R/W dice. I'd happily organise a run if only people could agree on whether they want the K line or not .

[Luke MacGillie]

Peter,

If I ever win the lottery Im not only hiring you to make a couple bolts of each type, Im flying you over here so we can both go and examine the hose and the hose cloth sample

[CollinMacD]

Allan,

I agree that your progress to what you consider acceptable levels of authenticity will take you a long time and lots of cash. Unlike the Civil War (which had factory-produced uniforms using sewing machines and lots of photographic documentation), 18th c. research is a matter of finding and interpreting bits-and-pieces in books, portraits, letters, and other documents. Good luck with that! Peter's research papers are a good place to start.

Gerry

Gerry,

I really don't mean to be defensive, but when the group I was associated did Civil War Re-enactments we went to great detail not to do the machine produced clothing. We purchased our fabric from Charlie Childs in Paris, Ohio, who had the material woven specifically as it was produced during the Civil War, we did not go the route of C & D Jarnagin or others, we made our clothing the same way. If I did not make it, it was done for my by Luther Sowers, of Anvil Arms, North Carolina, who again used only authentic material. All my brass buttons on my uniform frock were Civil War by Waterford buttons, originals. Same with my boots by Robert Serio of Prairie Bluff Arkansas, hand made, pegged. Every part of my kit if not original was a very high quality original. In addition we research and hand made the uniforms of the 76th Pennsylvania Keystone Zouaves, 100% like the originals including the Kepi/ and Fezes worn by this unit of the 10th Corps. We found the samples form the original uniforms down to the thread count of the pantaloons which was made of 18 ounce wool.
So there are groups out there that does the research and emulates the original. One other short tidbit, we need to get backpacks, since the unit we did the 28th Massachusetts were issued hardbacks, we MADE 110 Hardpacks by hand using wood, canvas, leather and brass fittings, exact duplicates of the original.

Took us several months but we did it. Just wanted to let you know this....Cheers.

[Orvis]

Gerry,

I really don't mean to be defensive, but when the group I was associated did Civil War Re-enactments we went to great detail not to do the machine produced clothing. We purchased our fabric from Charlie Childs in Paris, Ohio, who had the material woven specifically as it was produced during the Civil War, we did not go the route of C & D Jarnagin or others, we made our clothing the same way. If I did not make it, it was done for my by Luther Sowers, of Anvil Arms, North Carolina, who again used only authentic material. All my brass buttons on my uniform frock were Civil War by Waterford buttons, originals. Same with my boots by Robert Serio of Prairie Bluff Arkansas, hand made, pegged. Every part of my kit if not original was a very high quality original. In addition we research and hand made the uniforms of the 76th Pennsylvania Keystone Zouaves, 100% like the originals including the Kepi/ and Fezes worn by this unit of the 10th Corps. We found the samples form the original uniforms down to the thread count of the pantaloons which was made of 18 ounce wool.
So there are groups out there that does the research and emulates the original. One other short tidbit, we need to get backpacks, since the unit we did the 28th Massachusetts were issued hardbacks, we MADE 110 Hardpacks by hand using wood, canvas, leather and brass fittings, exact duplicates of the original.

Took us several months but we did it. Just wanted to let you know this....Cheers.

Thanks for all the info of where your ACW unit obtained uniforms and accoutrements - sounds like your unit is ultra-authentic and that's admirable. However, during the ACW sewing machines did exist and many uniforms were factory produced (more in the North than in the more agrarian South). Is your unit portraying one of the early war outfits that had custom-made unique uniforms (such as those worn by the 79th NY Highlanders) rather than the regulation government uniforms? If so, then your getting your uniforms hand-made makes sense.

Luther Sowers? I haven't heard anything about him in a long time. When I got into reenacting 18th c. Highlanders (77th Foot of 1757 and 42nd RHR of 1775), my first dirk was by Luther. One of the guys in my current unit (the 1745 Appin Regt) has a basket hilt by Luther - it's been fitted with an Armour Class blade because Luther's blades were of a softer metal that bent out of true easily. I'll have to look him up.