X Marks the Scot partner reply.

[Sean Wilson]

I'm thinking of buying a mid-ranged kilt around £350 in Gunn muted tartan from HoE. After purchasing a kilt a couple of years ago from Herritage of Scotland for £400, which when I looked under the lining didn't have a stabalizer fitted, I told myself the next kilt I purchased would be from one of the partners on XMTS.

I've made a few kilts myself but none have fitted as well as the HoS kilt I bought.

Anyway, I'd like another kilt that i haven't made myself and approached two of the partners on XMTS based in the UK asking if their £350 kilts had a stabalizer fitted as standard. I was kind of hoping their reply would be yes... I was disapointed. Both gave quick polite replies. The first gave the following response:


"I have spoken with one of our hand kiltmakers who says a stabiliser does not come standard in her kilts or with any of the other kiltmakers we use as it is not essential."

I was suprised at that one, I would have thought the stabiliser was TOTALLY ESSENTIAL!!!

The other partner didn't know what a stabalizer was... I sent photos with a description but I expect the reply will be the same as above... they don't fit one. We'll see...

It takes me around 30 minutes to fit a stabiliser and im not experienced. I'm so suprised that not fitting one saves so much time and money as to warrant omitting it from the build. Even more suprised at the responses so far...

I must quickly say that neither of the partners I approached was Steve Aston at Freedom Kilts nor was it Barbara Tewksbury, both of which I hold I'm the highest regard as master kilt makers and have provided a wealth of support and advice over the past couple of years with my kilt making endevours.

It looks like if I buy a kilt in this price range from the UK then, I'm going to have to fit the stabaliser myself which is disappointing. That or spend more money than i intended.

HEY-HO!

[Taskr]

Hi Sean,
I have an HoE kilt, and I'm quite happy with it. I did Steve's "straps test" and it seemed to pass - but one of these days I'm going to open up the lining of it and my first kilt and have a look as I prepare for my own kilt project. (I've already learned a lot from Barb's book and one of Steve's off-rack kilts.)

[Sean Wilson]

Hi Sean,
I have an HoE kilt, and I'm quite happy with it. I did Steve's "straps test" and it seemed to pass - but one of these days I'm going to open up the lining of it and my first kilt and have a look as I prepare for my own kilt project. (I've already learned a lot from Barb's book and one of Steve's off-rack kilts.)

Sorry I might have been misleading the tartan I like us from HoE but thats not the partners of XMTS I refer to. But thank you for your reply

[davidlpope]

I'm thinking of buying a mid-ranged kilt around £350 in Gunn muted tartan from HoE. After purchasing a kilt a couple of years ago from Herritage of Scotland for £400, which when I looked under the lining didn't have a stabalizer fitted, I told myself the next kilt I purchased would be from one of the partners on XMTS.

I've made a few kilts myself but none have fitted as well as the HoS kilt I bought.

Anyway, I'd like another kilt that i haven't made myself and approached two of the partners on XMTS based in the UK asking if their £350 kilts had a stabalizer fitted as standard. I was kind of hoping their reply would be yes... I was disapointed. Both gave quick polite replies. The first gave the following response:


"I have spoken with one of our hand kiltmakers who says a stabiliser does not come standard in her kilts or with any of the other kiltmakers we use as it is not essential."

I was suprised at that one, I would have thought the stabiliser was TOTALLY ESSENTIAL!!!

The other partner didn't know what a stabalizer was... I sent photos with a description but I expect the reply will be the same as above... they don't fit one. We'll see...

It takes me around 30 minutes to fit a stabiliser and im not experienced. I'm so suprised that not fitting one saves so much time and money as to warrant omitting it from the build. Even more suprised at the responses so far...

I must quickly say that neither of the partners I approached was Steve Aston at Freedom Kilts nor was it Barbara Tewksbury, both of which I hold I'm the highest regard as master kilt makers and have provided a wealth of support and advice over the past couple of years with my kilt making endevours.

It looks like if I buy a kilt in this price range from the UK then, I'm going to have to fit the stabaliser myself which is disappointing. That or spend more money than i intended.

HEY-HO!

Why not just save your pennies and order a kilt from Steve or Barb?

which I hold I'm the highest regard as master kilt makers and have provided a wealth of support and advice over the past couple of years with my kilt making endevours.

They're the real deal. Support them.

[tpa]

I'm thinking of buying a mid-ranged kilt around £350 in Gunn muted tartan from HoE.

Try: enquiries@houseoftartanskiltmakers.co.uk or look at http://www.houseoftartanskiltmakers.co.uk/
Peterborough. 8 yd from £240 and I do know you will get a great kilt. Just give Pat a ring on: 01733 310628 and ask. She also specialises in providing a quick turnaround.

(PS: I don't have any connection other than having arranged to drop in sometime ago when I was in the area to see what she did.)

[javankrona]

I'm thinking of buying a mid-ranged kilt around £350 in Gunn muted tartan from HoE. After purchasing a kilt a couple of years ago from Herritage of Scotland for £400, which when I looked under the lining didn't have a stabalizer fitted, I told myself the next kilt I purchased would be from one of the partners on XMTS.

HEY-HO!

if you pursue the suggestion offered by tpa, I'd be curious to find how it turned out.

[Pleater]

It is eleven years since I joined this forum, and (what? How did that happen?)

and - although my methods of constructing a kilt have altered, they have always included a strip of something strong enough to take the strain of the strap and buckle - I have used the materials used for military webbing and seat belts at various times, and I also ease the fabric in by about two inches so as to remove the strain of wear off the sewing. It is easy to do with a wool or high woollen mix firstly by sewing it onto the rigid webbing and then careful pressing.
I only reinforce the waist so there is no danger of getting a ripple effect across the pleats, which is due to the normal professional underpinning across the fell holding them to the original measurement.

Although I have managed to destroy all the oldest kilts by various means - I wear them out on the heathland when painting gardening or shifting furniture, the original reinforcement and the two straps and buckles are still in good condition - had I used better quality fabric I suspect that there would be kilts from that time still wearable - I have the fabric of my original black kilt, but it is now retired as it is partly charcoal grey due to exposure to sun, rain, hail, sleet and wind enough to dry it off again. Apart from the strips of different shades, there are no marks of strain or distortion on the fabric.
Although I can't imagine anyone putting an expensive kilt through the same testing to destruction experiences as mine, I do feel that makers who do not take precautions against stretching and distortion are just relying on their product being worn infrequently and sedately to keep it from sagging.

Woollen cloth is not stable - it is the basis of all tailoring and haute couture, that woollen cloth can be distorted. Make it hot and damp and it can be stretched and narrowed, even twisted off the grain, so anyone making a woollen kilt and not putting in a stabiliser does not understand the craft nor the consequences.

Anne the Pleater

[Sean Wilson]

Thank you every one for the feedback. I'll let you all know what I decide to do as soon as I know myself lol.

In the meantime I have been asked to say who the two partners are....and by the way both partners have now replied and both say they don't fit a stabalizer just a fused interfacing.

The first is MacGregor and Duff, the second is Scotweb.

[MacGumerait]

Sean ,

I am a bit surprised that one of them was Scotweb . Please don't misunderstand , I fully believe your information , I am just surprised by their response .

Five years ago I ordered an 8 yd " made to measure " traditional kilt from them in their " Balmoral " line of kilts .

I inquired about the stabilizer , interfacing and lining with them . The person I communicated with was knowledgeable and understood my questions and their kilt maker assured me they used a stabilizer as well as the interfacing . Upon receiving the kilt , I did open up a portion to check and these items were used .

To coin a phrase that originated here on XMarks .... my kilt from them was built like a " tank " .... as it is one of the better made kilts that I own .

Once again , I am surprised and disappointed with their response to you .

Cheers , Mike

[Sean Wilson]

Sean ,

I am a bit surprised that one of them was Scotweb . Please don't misunderstand , I fully believe your information , I am just surprised by their response .

Five years ago I ordered an 8 yd " made to measure " traditional kilt from them in their " Balmoral " line of kilts .

I inquired about the stabilizer , interfacing and lining with them . The person I communicated with was knowledgeable and understood my questions and their kilt maker assured me they used a stabilizer as well as the interfacing . Upon receiving the kilt , I did open up a portion to check and these items were used .

To coin a phrase that originated here on XMarks .... my kilt from them was built like a " tank " .... as it is one of the better made kilts that I own .

Once again , I am surprised and disappointed with their response to you .

Cheers , Mike

Maybe Scotweb have changed how they do things over the last 5 years... at least both companies where honest with me in saying they don't fit a stabalizer.