Fraser of Struy's Plaid - Reweave

[figheadair]

A quick update. I had to do a couple of minor adjustments last week to the count to fit Robin's loom so that the sett will repeat and finish with the herringbone on both sides of the double width cloth. It should be on the warping frame shortly. Pictures to follow.

[Orvis]

Thanks Peter! I'm looking forward to this.

[jesuisprest]

Given that this is the first accurate run of this tartan since the mid to late 18th century I was wondering if any light can be shed on the original tartan. Peter's extensive research was enough to show that this tartan is likely of that period and that it should no longer be referred to as Altyre but rather as Struy. The stories around this tartan suggest that it was worn at Culloden, while this can never be outrightly be proven is it possible to determine the original use of the tartan? I believe Peter stated that the original specimens have no herringbone selvage so does that mean that the original was not necessarily cloth worn as a kilt?

Best,
Adam

[figheadair]

Given that this is the first accurate run of this tartan since the mid to late 18th century I was wondering if any light can be shed on the original tartan. Peter's extensive research was enough to show that this tartan is likely of that period and that it should no longer be referred to as Altyre but rather as Struy. The stories around this tartan suggest that it was worn at Culloden, while this can never be outrightly be proven is it possible to determine the original use of the tartan? I believe Peter stated that the original specimens have no herringbone selvage so does that mean that the original was not necessarily cloth worn as a kilt?

Best,
Adam

The inclusion of a herringbone selvedge was commonplace on 18th century plaiding but not exclusive. I have examined a number of specimens that have a standard twill selvedge, these include some that are correctly offset (with or without a herringbone) other were more random in their setting arrangement. The latter is indicative of a less proficient weaver/warper in my opinion.

If a piece of cloth is not made into a recognisable garment the can only speculate about its use. In the case of the Struy plaid, its construction is consistent with the type of cloth used for male attire in the early-mid 18th century and we have the family tradition that it was Thomas Fraser's plaid. Until I have an opportunity to examine the larger piece I won't be able to tell whether it shows evidence of having been joined. Even then, the lack of evidence would not necessarily be evidence of a lack of joining, only that it can't be proven. Evidence of joining would show that the piece was part of a joined plaid but not how it was used. If it had only ever been unjoined it could still have been used as a narrow plaid or as a feileadh beag (an unsewn kilt).

[jesuisprest]

Thanks, Peter. I realised shortly after posting that we would only be able to conjecture about the original use of the cloth. Additonally, you make a good point that lack of evidence in one regard does not necessarily constitute evidence in another.

I feel a bit silly now, I have just reread the last few paragraphs of your article on the Struy and you talk about all of this I should have reread it before I posted! This quotation below is from your article

...however, even if joined it would have been relatively narrow for use as a belted plaid. It is more likely therefore that it was used as a seperate upper plaid, something that could have been worn with a fheileadh beag or truibhas (trews).

This is interesting that, as you suggest, even if it were joined it was likely not a fheileadh mor.

Thank you for shedding so much light on this tartan and for getting us the best reproduction of it.

Best,
Adam

[figheadair]

Here's the material on the Sectional Warper at Andrew Elliot Ltd Should be on the loom this week.

[figheadair]

Here's the material on the Sectional Warper at Andrew Elliot Ltd Should be on the loom this week.

Here are some more images of the cloth on the loom.



And the herringbone selevedge.

[Orvis]

Peter,

From the photos the cloth looks excellent! I'll look forward to learning the details when the run is ready to go.

Gerry

[jesuisprest]

It is perfect, Peter. You really have outdone yourself on this. Robin is a true master.

Best,
Adam

[figheadair]

The cloth arrived from the finishers this morning and I'm very pleased with the result. It was specially dyed to recreate the original shades and woven with a herringbone selvedge on both edges.

I've a bit of a manic week but will be in touch with those that expressed an interest shortly.



I'd originally thought this would look fantastic pleated to alternating pivot stripes but in amending the setting to fit double width cloth that option has probably been lost but there are some nice alternatives still pleating to stripe.

To the green pivot


To the red pivot


To the intervening fine stripes