Kilt Length For Man Sized Men. (Kilt Makers, Take Note)

[Dreadbelly]

And no, not talking about where it hangs.

I have had my kilt for a couple of weeks. And I have noticed a few small problems. It's not long enough. Nice old lady where I live said it doesn't have enough give to it. She used to be a seamstress a long long long time ago.

See, I measured from point A to point B, like it said to do on Rocky's site. Came up to 21 inches in the Hail Mary Method. And I thought all was good.

But when I sit down, bend over, or otherwise flex my middle, my kilt hikes up all the way to my pelvis. I can easily be exposed. And sitting down means my regimental undercarriage lands on the seat with no pleats.

But being a full sized fellow... Not fat... But big boned, full sized fellow, I don't have enough spread. I was told for one, I need more rise, to stablize my kilt's center. What ever that means. Nice lady told me that I should have a military rise in my kilt, up to my ribs, that it would help. And more flare. More room for shifting body parts that scrunch and take on new shapes when I bend over.

How does one measure for this when ordering a made to fit kilt from one of our many fine kilt makers? I have the terms, from what she told me, but, are they universal? I asked her, she didn't know. I have a 5 inch rise up from my hip bone, and a 19 inch length downward. I have a 48 inch waist, and 48 inch hips, but I need a 2 to 4 inch spread allowance. She said this can be done with clever pleating, which I totally don't understand. And she can't seem to explain it in a way my thick head will understand. All I do understand is, when I bend or flex, my waist size expands a good bit. And to compensate, my kilt is bunching and lifting, exposing my backside to the world. When bending over to clean up doggy doo, I accidently mooned a park full of lookers. Lots of gasping and angry hisses.

Any kilt makers want to take a stab at trying to understand my incomprehensable babbling and offer a solution to my problem?

[Riverkilt]

Well, I ain't no kiltmaker, but I've helped a few make their car payments.

I've had to learn little things from the ladies who wear skirts. Like sweeping the kilt under my tail end when I sit...think that's been discussed already.

Other thing I had to learn was to squat rather than bend over...its sometimes called the "stewardess squat" rather than the squat you'd do in a gym with weights on your shoulders. Picture in your mind how a female flight attendant "squats" next to a seated passenger...sort of sits on one leg while the other one is forward and bent at the knee. You can also squat like a catcher squats behind the plate.

Its not the kilt length if it looks good when you're standing. Just a matter of learning how to drive a MUG without being arrested.

Ron

[Jimmy Carbomb]

It's all in the "art" and education of tapering. It is BY FAR the most difficult thing to get when making a kilt. If it's off... the kilt won't hang right, will pucker in the apron, will wander in the pleats, and will bunch with any movement. Anyone can make a kilt. It takes education and experience to make the kilt that works.

This has LONG been my beef with kilts these days. Take a GOOD look at a tank, and you'll see what I mean. UtiliKilts and AmeriKilts STILL don't know how to make a proper taper. That's why the things pucker like a baby eating lemons. Bear DOES know how to handle a taper, and has the only kilts that I've seen that can accomodate real hips. Otherwise, you are going to have to get a Scottish Authentic Handsewn kilt... MADE BY TRAINED, EDUCATED, CAREFUL, CRAFTWORTHY, AND AUTHENTIC KILT MAKERS. It does NOT have to be an 8+ yarder... just one that's made by and educated kiltmaker.

You get what you pay for. These highly educated kiltmakers serve YEARS in apprenticeships to get to where they are. If you haven't had the opportunity to read the posts from myself and Hamish about the kiltmakers... take the time to browse-back.

It's worth the reading to understand what we're talking about in "educated kiltmakers". It is NOT a cut on any other kilt makers... just a distinction that the ones who have devoted YEARS to the craft, are WELL worth the extra dollars for quality.

[Dreadbelly]

I currently have a philabeg from Rocky and Kelly.

I am not just "bending over." I am both bending and hunkering. My knees don't bend as much as I would like them to any more. And when I do this, certain bits of my anatomy dangle down below my sveldge. Everything just hikes right up.

I have noticed that my apron puckers a bit. On the left side. Just on the left side, on that first pleat. Don't get me wrong, I love my kilt. I am just learning how complicated it can be for such a simple garmet.

I didn't know that human beings shaped like barrels needed to measure things like "rise" and "drop." No other kilt site ever mentioned these things. And seeing as how a few folk around here are large men, these sorts of things could be awfully handy to know.

[Graham]

Dread, I suggest you check with Rocky or Kelly about that, if they made the kilt they are best positioned to fix it or advise you.

I know the problem you mention, I've seen it too in the Philabeg, but not in the 8 yard traditionals.

I may be wrong, but I figure that an 8 yard kilt has both the material and the extra time that goes into it to make a really nice fitting kilt.

I have two traditionals from USAK and both fit, hang and swing wonderfully.
As for the casuals and philabegs, they're fine but you really do get what you pay for.

Having said that, I know Rocky would be happy to do what it takes to satisfy you, he's been great to me, and he knows his stuff.

[RockyR]

Thanks for the compliment Graham.

Dreadlockness... another member of XMARKS has bought a couple philabeg kilts from us recently is a big guy. I tried something different on his second kilt and am awaiting feedback. When you are a 48 w and 48 hips, it doesn't mean you are "straight down". Think of it like 2 tires stacked on top of each other, but NOT QUITE straight. Even though the hips/waist measure the same, the butt still sticks out a bit. The way to combat this issue is to taper a few pleats even though the "math" tells you not to. This gives your "girth" somewhere to shift during times when you sit down/bend over.

The Philabeg model naturally sits well on your hips. MOST times this means under your gut (for the big boned guys). Some like to wear it on the belly button, but when you put your sporran on, it can do crazy things to the front apron.

If you'd like me to try to fix the hips (taper them a bit more) or re-do the front apron so it doesn't curl, let me know and I'd gladly fix it for you.

[Dreadbelly]

Thanks for the compliment Graham.

Dreadlockness... another member of XMARKS has bought a couple philabeg kilts from us recently is a big guy. I tried something different on his second kilt and am awaiting feedback. When you are a 48 w and 48 hips, it doesn't mean you are "straight down". Think of it like 2 tires stacked on top of each other, but NOT QUITE straight. Even though the hips/waist measure the same, the butt still sticks out a bit. The way to combat this issue is to taper a few pleats even though the "math" tells you not to. This gives your "girth" somewhere to shift during times when you sit down/bend over.

The Philabeg model naturally sits well on your hips. MOST times this means under your gut (for the big boned guys). Some like to wear it on the belly button, but when you put your sporran on, it can do crazy things to the front apron.

If you'd like me to try to fix the hips (taper them a bit more) or re-do the front apron so it doesn't curl, let me know and I'd gladly fix it for you.

If I sent it off, I would have nothing to wear. I am that dedicated now. I honestly got rid of all my pants. I have two pairs of sweat pants that I wear around the house.

Rocky, I am paying off the plastic as fast as I can. Should be ordering kilt number two very soon. We'll see then, if I can get something done with the philabeg.

[Magnus Sporrano]

I think I'm the other big feller that Rocky is referring to. I have two Philabegs with 52x52x23 (IIRC) measurements.

Big **** going one way and big beer gut going the other way is quite a challenge to surmount.

Somehow no one yet has complained of catching a glimpse of my twig & berries though I've was very self conscious of it for the first week or so. About the only shortcoming I've experienced is cold seats (i.e. back of the kilt comes up REAL high when sitting, but nobody but me knows just how high).

[Dreadbelly]

I think I'm the other big feller that Rocky is referring to. I have two Philabegs with 52x52x23 (IIRC) measurements.

Big **** going one way and big beer gut going the other way is quite a challenge to surmount.

Somehow no one yet has complained of catching a glimpse of my twig & berries though I've was very self conscious of it for the first week or so. About the only shortcoming I've experienced is cold seats (i.e. back of the kilt comes up REAL high when sitting, but nobody but me knows just how high).

And when you sit... You thighs push your gut upward and outward correct? Artificially expanding your waist line and causing your kilt to do the only thing it can. Ride up.

I found a sewing book that **Ahem** deals with ladies skirts. Plus sized ladies skirts. And I learned more about rise and drop. So I have a better understanding of it now. And it does apply to kilts. Anybody can make a kilt for a bean pole, making them for brawny men takes some engineering.

Oh, and one last comment... Rocky, that bit about two tires... Did you just call me the Michelin Man?

[RockyR]

Yes... Magnus was the other customer.
NO... I did not mean to call you the Michilin Man (I gave Magnus the same analogy). hahaha

The reson many men of "size" wear the Philabeg (or any OTHER casual kilt maker's kilt) under their gut is for that exact reason. It WON'T rise b/c the gut stops it. It's just one of those things that's tough to control. That's why the measureing instructions say to measure at the top of your jeans. It's a problem I'm fixing (with the fix I made on Magnus's kilt in tapering a few more pleats). That should help the problem a good deal. It gives more of an area to "expand" when you sit.