Quote Originally Posted by Rod Roy View Post
... I have attached a photo of my tartan with pinned pleats, which I´d call a mix of box pleats and knife pleats
I'd recognize those pins anywhere, nice to see you are working with Paul Henry, whose photo I assume this was.

I was very lucky to visit Paul just after he had spent time studying the 1790 MacDuff kilt. It was fascinating to see his pictures and the complete absence of most of the things we worry about today. As Figheadair has explained it was completely random pleats, almost just replicating the gathering on a belted plaid. So all this worrying about which stripe or the sett seems entirely wrong if you are really thinking about the mid eighteenth century.

I suspect whatever we imagine today will be nothing like an original, so either go for random, or do what would certainly have been the case in the 18th Century, and just ask the kilt-maker to make it, with no further instruction, and get what you are given ... that would indeed be authentic!