The first number is the Drop. This is measured from the center of the top strap - down - to the selvedge. (or hem if you wish)
The second number is the Rise. This is measured from the center of the top strap - up - to the top of the waistbanding.
The total length of the kilt is Drop + Rise.
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This is how kilts made in the traditional manner are made and measured.
All kilts made in the traditional manner should have the back which tapers from the hip - in - to the anatomical waist, and then flares back out to go over the bottom of the ribs.
(I'm sorry but if you have a kilt that does not flare back out above the top strap, you do not have a kilt made in the traditional manner.)
A kilt may have a 1 inch rise up to a 4 inch rise in a really older military style. The Drop may be exactly the same. The length of the Fell area may be exactly the same and the kilt may still fit the same person perfectly. But the top of the kilt will be at a different height.
In this next photo, the kilt on the left has a 1 inch Rise. (A kilt made in the Contemporary style) The center kilt has a two inch Rise. (Made in the Traditional style) And the one the right is an actual RSS kilt with a 3 inch rise. (Made in the Military style)
All three kilts fit the same guy (me) perfectly. The bottom of the Fell area is right at the crest of the hips or butt and the bottom selvedge (hem) is right at the top of the knee cap.
(Also please notice the difference in the placement of the third or hip buckle. This is why we say that the third buckle is there for the bling factor only. You should never buckle the lower or hip strap tight on modern kilts.)
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