Wearing the Montrose Doublet

[Tobus]

I generally don't have much interest in formalwear with the kilt, since I never have any occasion to wear it. But I might have an opportunity to buy an older (1980s) green velvet Montrose at a very attractive price (less than 25% of what one would cost new) which would fit me perfectly. Just out of curiosity, what are the proper traditional options for wearing this? Specifically, is it only meant to be worn with a jabot and lace at the cuffs? I've looked on the net for images of people wearing it, and some people seem to just wear it over a white collared shirt with no neck adornment or lace, but I don't know if this is "correct" to do. Is a bowtie appropriate with it or not?

What levels of formality are appropriate for wearing a Montrose? And what should be worn with it to remain firmly in the traditional camp? It seems obvious that it's meant to be worn with a belt and waistplate, but what else that's specific to the jacket?

For reference, this is what I'm talking about:

[Father Bill]

At such a price, if it fits, quick: grab it! The lace cuffs are not de rigeur but the jabot is the norm for such a beautiful doublet.

[CollinMacD]

Lace cuffs with Jabot collar.

[MacCathmhaoil]

Generally I'd agree that it's a jabot for the Montrose although I have seen it with a white tie (see link and scroll through pic's)
If you look through the galleries for the Royal Caledonian Ball you notice the vast majority wearing jabot and many with cuffs. I had a Sheriffmuir that I did wear with a silk Edwardian style cravat or a riding stock. While the jabot does look good on many, it makes me look like I'm an eye patch and a parrot away from a pirate outfit.....

https://www.tatler.com/gallery/asap-fundraiser

[CollinMacD]

I chose the Sheriffmuir style instead of the Prince Charles Jacket, and I do wear a bowtie and works just fine, and is acceptable (well on this side of the pond), and I am sure you could wear a bow tie too. but I normally wear with tartan or mostly black bow. I do love the Montrose Doublet, I am sure that would look really nice with a fly.

[Tobus]

While the jabot does look good on many, it makes me look like I'm an eye patch and a parrot away from a pirate outfit.....

Ha! Well, to be honest, I have the same concern. The only place I could see myself wearing it would be a Burns supper, and possibly only if I were the one presenting the haggis. I don't think that will ever happen.

Outside of that context, a lace jabot and cuffs with a Montrose would seem very over-the-top, both in terms of formality and bordering on historical costumery for anything I would attend. This is precisely why I am asking the question. If I cannot find a use for it, or a way to wear it that fits the events I would attend, then I will have to pass on it, no matter how good the deal is.

[Hirsty]

I always think it is better to be over dressed than under dressed.

As said above, a jabot with a Motrose Doublet but cuffs are optional.

One thing to note is that a velvet doublet is very hot, best to just wear a tee shirt underneath. You can alway pin the cuffs on to the inside of the sleeves.

[McMurdo]

As others have said with a jabot and cuffs, I have a vintage Montrose Doublet that I have worn to many Burns Nights in the past. The formality level is White Tie, however I have worn it when Black Tie would do as I wanted to.



I got the jabot and cuffs from Lady Chrystel and am still very happy with them.

[OC Richard]

As we all know a suite of new Evening jackets appeared in the early 20th century.

What's cool is that one can get an idea of when the various styles appeared from old catalogues.

My earliest catalogues only have The Doublet ("suitable for older gentlemen") and The Coatee (or the Prince Charlie Coatee, "suitable for younger men" it being a recent invention).

Then The Montrose appears, mentioned "for youths"



AFAIK it's the first Evening Dress jacket made specifically to be worn with dirk belt and lace jabot.

McMurdo has of course nailed the look to perfection!

Though dirk belts and jabots were sometimes worn with the 19th century Evening jackets (Doublet and Argyll) by the early 20th century belts had ceased to be worn with those, and jabots rarely.

BTW the Montrose isn't a "doublet" strictly speaking, but what in the 19th century would be called a "shell jacket".

I used to have one in claret velvet... happily no photos exist...

[MacCathmhaoil]

The dress Argyle for evening wear in the advertisement appears to have satin lapels, not seen very frequently today unless a bespoke jacket I'd guess.