YOUR fantasy kilt...

[Guthrumironhead]

Right now I'm dreaming of a Barb Tewksbury 8 yarder in reproduction Guthrie from the Dagliesh mill. Hey, it could happen..

[kingandrew]

This past summer I got what had been my fantasy kilt: a full traditional 8-yard version in midweight (13 oz) material from USA Kilts. It is so much nicer than my previous 5-yard "casual" kilts in lightweight (10-11 oz) tartan.

I will admit that I have often fantasized about getting a custom-weave Harris Tweed tartan run, to make a kilt and possibly a matching jacket and/or vest. Since I live in a warm place now, I would opt for a low-yardage kilt, maybe the 4-yard box pleat. I figure the tweed would get pretty warm.

Obviously, with a custom weave, I would get into the kinds of questions Figheadair has mentioned above.

Real fantasy items I think about involve antique sporrans, kilt pins, brooches and other such "bling" accessories. Those seem to be harder to find and harder for me to afford.

Andrew

[Mpfox1733]

No question about it. An Arizona State Tartan kilt hand sewn by my kiltmaker Kathy Lare. I already have one, but weight loss makes it impossible to wear.

Just ordered a Weathered Scott Green in casual from Rocky to fit my current size. Been jonesing not having a kilt to wear at all. Will tide me over until I reach my target weight and can start adding kilts again - beginning with the Arizona State tartan...that be the tartan of the State of Arizona rather than the state university...

I need an Arizona tartan kilt. I've never seen it before. I live in Mesa, and I really like the colors. Where could I find a kilt in that tartan? The maker you mentioned, or did you get that one somewhere else? I wear a 45 waist 23 length if it's close and your thinking of selling.

[lschwartz]

Honestly those things weren't part of my ideal kilt because despite over 40 years kiltwearing I know little of weaving.

I wouldn't know a selvedge pattern from a selvedge mark. It brought to mind Stephen Maturin's tour of the Sophie, and his being confronted by the jargon concerning the various parts of a ship:

You could not explain this maze of ropes and wood and canvas without using sea-terms, I suppose. No, it would not be possible, for it is by those names alone that they are known.

It is wonderful to have you here on XMarks- I've learned so much from your contributions- yet still in truth I know next to nothing about it.

Richard, a selvedge, or self edge, piece of tartan is one that has the fringe on the cut edge of the apron, rather than having it hemmed.

[The Wizard of BC]

I am very sorry Ischwartz, but the word selvedge, as it is used in kiltmaking, refers to the long edge of the fabric which will become the bottom of the kilt. It is a fabric edge that is finished and will not unravel or need a hem.

On the right in this photo is a tuck selvedge vs a fringed edge on the right.



While technically both edges will not unravel, the one on the left does not require a hem.

The selvedge produced on a shuttle loom is even better and is known as a kilt selvedge.



A herringbone selvedge has a distinctive herringbone pattern worked into the edge, in contrast to the Twiil of the rest of the fabric.



Photo credit - (Fabric woven by R.L. Heil, an X Marks member.)

[The Wizard of BC]

The fringe that is worked, or pulled, to an apron facing is totally decorative. It is just one way to finish the apron facings.

Here is the bottom of a kilt showing the selvedge, the facing, and the inside of the fringe.



The same fringe on the outside.



A fringe is not required and not all kilts have a fringe. Some have the raw edge folded under like a large hem. This is called a "facing".

Here is an old military kilt without a fringe.



Some kilts can have an even more decorative double or even triple fringe.

[OC Richard]

But what is a selvedge pattern versus a selvedge mark?

I'm guessing the herringbone creates a pattern, but what is the "mark"?

And what is "tucked selvedge" versus whatever other sorts?

To me (a mere kilt wearer, not a weaver) these things are weaving technicalities and not something I would have thought of in ordering a kilt, even my "fantasy kilt".

Ditto what methods are used for dying the wool, and whether the fabric is hand woven or machine woven.

There's a parallel to that in the piping world, when McCallum Bagpipes began mass-producing pipes using CNC lathes and milling machines, causing much debate amongst pipers.

[Riverkilt]

I need an Arizona tartan kilt. I've never seen it before. I live in Mesa, and I really like the colors. Where could I find a kilt in that tartan? The maker you mentioned, or did you get that one somewhere else? I wear a 45 waist 23 length if it's close and your thinking of selling.

PM sent.....

[lschwartz]

I am very sorry Ischwartz, but the word selvedge, as it is used in kiltmaking, refers to the long edge of the fabric which will become the bottom of the kilt. It is a fabric edge that is finished and will not unravel or need a hem.....

Steve, thank you for clarifying my misinterpretation of the term. I knew that if I was wrong someone would correct me in a nice way.

Thanks,

Larry

[figheadair]

But what is a selvedge pattern versus a selvedge mark?

I'm guessing the herringbone creates a pattern, but what is the "mark"?

And what is "tucked selvedge" versus whatever other sorts?

To me (a mere kilt wearer, not a weaver) these things are weaving technicalities and not something I would have thought of in ordering a kilt, even my "fantasy kilt".

I need to update this paper when I have a moment but it answers most of your questions - https://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/Tr...e_patterns.pdf