Again a “split” question

[Barb T]

Hi Tómmes,

That's wonderful that he was willing to send you pics. I think I'd stick by my recommendations from my previous post. I think he needs a goodly amount of taper in the apron, and the pleats taper will pull it in to the small of his back enough without giving the pleats "the wave".

You might consider adding 1/2" to the apron at the hips and 1/2" to the pleats at the hips in order to give the kilt a bit more girth in the hips so that the apron hangs straighter down the front and doesn't pull in under his tummy.

[Dutch piper]

Thanks a lot!
My own split wasn’t that far off
But I will use your recommedation.
Isn’t adding an extra inch to the hips (1/2” apron, 1/2” pleats) causing the weave?

[Barb T]

Isn’t adding an extra inch to the hips (1/2” apron, 1/2” pleats) causing the wave?

No - if you added 1" to the pleats only, it could cause the wave. What you want to do is give a bit more circumference at the hips so that the apron hangs straighter down in the front and the apron-pleats boundary hangs vertically. The way you do that is by adding equally to the apron and pleats at the hips.

Here's an example of a kilt made with a hip measurement that is too small - the kilt pulls in under the belly, the apron-pleats boundary is not straight up and down, and the kilt is tilted so that the apron edge and first few pleats flop forward at the bottom.



Here's the same guy with a kilt where several inches were added at the hips, split equally between the pleats and apron:

[Dutch piper]

Thank you Barb,

I think I will stick to your recommended split.
I asked him to remeasure his waist and hipsize.
He came up with 52” hipsize.
So making a 53” hip already ads 1/2” to apron and pleats.

If you like, I will post a picture of the kilt when it’s ready. Although that might take a month or two

[Barb T]

Sounds good! And definitely post a pic - I’ll be looking forward to seeing it!