Removing wool stiffness

[Blaidd]

Collective Rabble,
I have purchased an 8 yard 100% wool kilt, as 'ex-hire' . However, having a good order history with the supplier (who is a reputable 'authentic' supplier, often cited within these pages), he has actually supplied a brand new item for the same price.
However, the wool is quite stiff and does not swing/sway etc as my others. It has the wider pleats rather than needle pleats, but even compared with another similar item I have, it has a tendency to 'stick' (for example, if a pleat lifts at the rear, it tends to stay put rather than fall). It resembles in fact, my first ever purchase, which was a cheap man made example!
So my question, is there anyway to soften the wool? Is this natural oil in the wool.....?
Grateful for any thoughts from the collective. Many thanks.

[Tobus]

I wonder how much of this is the different pleating versus a stiffer cloth. Some pleating styles (especially wide box pleats, in my experience) just don't move or swish like traditional knife pleats. This is one of the reasons I don't like box pleats: they are not "self-correcting" like a knife pleat. But even in knife pleated kilts, I notice that the more yardage that is used and the narrower the exposed pleats (i.e. the more overlap they have), the better it hangs and swishes and self-corrects.

Forgetting for a moment the pleats and hang of the kilt, if you just hold the material in your hand, does it feel stiffer than your other wool kilts? I have been doing a lot of shopping around lately and handling materials from different mills, and I don't find there to be much difference in the handle of their cloth. I have, in fact, been looking for a coarser and stiffer tartan cloth, but they all seem very soft to me. So I'm wondering if yours has been treated somehow (with starch or something else) to stiffen it up, or if this perceived stiffness is really the material itself as opposed to just the construction of the kilt. If all you're comparing to is synthetic materials, then of course wool will be stiffer with more friction. It really comes down to your frame of reference or what you're comparing it to.

One sure-fire way to soften a worsted twill material like tartan is to "full" the material by washing it in hot soapy water with lots of agitation and beating it. Unfortunately, this will shrink it, which is not a good idea on a finished garment! It would be better to have been done on the bolt of cloth first. On your finished kilt, probably the best way to loosen or soften it up is to just wear it. Get the fabric moving and stretching a little to your body. For pre-wear treatment, you could roll it up and mash on it, then hang it and whip on it a bit with a stick. Work the fabric with your fingers diagonally to the weave directions to get the yarns moving. Beyond that, I don't know that there's much to be done for softening the cloth. I wouldn't go spraying oils on it or anything.

[Blaidd]

Thank you Tobus, your comments are always welcome. I take your point regarding the wider pleats entirely; it was a though that also crossed my mind. That said, your other direction regarding the handle of the cloth may hold some substance (no pun intended! ). This kilt is quite stiff to the touch; consequently, I will look into 'weathering' it somewhat to see if that produces results (boil was, whilst effective at softening fabric is probably not an option... ). I am used to weathering Period costume pieces I produce so a cement mixer and dry bricks it is....

Many thanks Tobus.

[Nomad]

You'll just have to wear it more often, and on those lines I think that it's about time for another kilts in Wilts outing now your diary isn't so busy (will give you a bell over the weekend).

P.S finally got round to altering that cheap kilt I got on eBay, took a lot more work than initially thought, but worth it for the price.

[Blaidd]

You'll just have to wear it more often, and on those lines I think that it's about time for another kilts in Wilts outing now your diary isn't so busy (will give you a bell over the weekend).

P.S finally got round to altering that cheap kilt I got on eBay, took a lot more work than initially thought, but worth it for the price.

🤣🤣Look forward to seeing that Cilt mate. More importantly, Cilts in Wilts is a must! My turn to travel me thinks! Speak soon

[bodhran4me]

A twill weave in a kilt is different from a blanket but it is a thought...

https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threa...ankets.209476/

In particular post #15 is a technique I have heard used to reduce itch, stiffness and increase water resistance in wool blankets.

My understanding of kilt washing is to use cool water in the tub and slosh the garment back and forth without agitation(folding, crumpling etc.). Remove the kilt from water and rinse thoroughly using the same technique. When rinsing is finished place it between some towels and press the water out. Alternately roll it up in the towels ad press the water out. Do NOT wring the water out of the kilt. Lay the kilt flat on several thickness of towel to finish drying, do NOT hang to dry.

Maybe others with more experience will weigh in. I have washed wool sweaters and socks with this tub method with good results, but not my kilt.

[Steve Ashton]

Take the kilt to the dry cleaners. Tell them clean but don't press.

[figheadair]

A twill weave in a kilt is different from a blanket but it is a thought...

https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threa...ankets.209476/

In particular post #15 is a technique I have heard used to reduce itch, stiffness and increase water resistance in wool blankets.

My understanding of kilt washing is to use cool water in the tub and slosh the garment back and forth without agitation(folding, crumpling etc.). Remove the kilt from water and rinse thoroughly using the same technique. When rinsing is finished place it between some towels and press the water out. Alternately roll it up in the towels ad press the water out. Do NOT wring the water out of the kilt. Lay the kilt flat on several thickness of towel to finish drying, do NOT hang to dry.

Maybe others with more experience will weigh in. I have washed wool sweaters and socks with this tub method with good results, but not my kilt.

Not quite. Don't confuse weave structure and yarn type. 2/2 twill is structurally very stable and ideal for a variety of hard wearing cloth from tartan to denim. Using a softer yarn, for example; woollen spun or from a merino fleece, will make for a softer handle to the cloth but it can still be twill weave. This is the case with blankets.

There's nothing wrong with hanging a good worst kilt on the line to drip dry. It won't stretch and sag like a woollen sweater will.

[Steve Ashton]

"There's nothing wrong with hanging a good worst kilt on the line to drip dry. It won't stretch and sag like a woollen sweater will."

Just get a much of the water out of the kilt as you can before hanging it up. A wet kilt is HEAVY.

[Blaidd]

Grateful to all fellow Rabble for the advice and suggestions.