Tool Recommendation

[javankrona]

So, I'm curious. Why the thumbs down on this thread? The person who made the original post asked a question, and it was answered honestly and politely by both Steve and me. Why did that merit a thumbs down???

I hope that wasn’t my thumb. Since I began the post, I just now tried to vote 5* ... then I got a message that I already voted and cannot change my previous vote. Odd, I don’t remember voting on this thread or really, any other thread. So if it was me ... it was totally inadvertent and I will place the blame wholly on fat fingers.

[javankrona]

I picked up an assortment of needles and thread this weekend, cut up a pair of denim shorts that will never, ever again fit me, and began pushing needle through fabric. First just trying to get the feel of it. Added some thread after I made a bunch of needle holes. Felt pretty confident until I turned to the wrong side ... oh yuck; not much of a straight line on that side ... so more practice.

I did find that I’ve not yet found my comfort needle; too skinny, too long, too fat. So I’m still trying different needles ... and perhaps thread wax might help with the thicker needle. The thicker ones that felt comfortable were too long, and seemed to not like being pushed through denim.

But I know it’ll just take time, so I’m going to take my time and work it out.

Again, Thanks

-John

[Todd Bradshaw]

As far as high quality modern sewing machines go, our vote goes to Husqvarna Viking, though there are other good brands as well. Most of the items my wife sews are wool, tweeds or tartans along with some heavier coat weight and even blanket weight wools. She uses a Viking Sapphire 850 machine, which is excellent and in the mid to upper range of the Viking line of machines. Since I was a professional sailmaker for about 35 years and worked on hot air balloons before that, we have always had several machines on hand, and the 850 has been one of the most dependable.

I sewed the leather goods in these photos either by hand or with my big industrial Consew upholstery machine, but all the wool clothing was sewn with the Viking. Compared to an old Singer, a good mid-range modern machine will probably be a lot more precise and have a lot fewer problems, despite much of it being plastic. The important parts won't be, as long as you get up above the bargain/beginner price range, many of which struggle with thicker fabrics.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nsjhrx7h6j...jects.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6dro4rhmf5...coats.jpg?dl=0

[Steve Ashton]

John,

May I ask please - What style of kilt would you like to make?
What fabric would you like to make your kilt from?

[javankrona]

John,

May I ask please - What style of kilt would you like to make?
What fabric would you like to make your kilt from?

The first one I build will be 16oz wool. But I do plan on using Marton Mills PV as well.

[Steve Ashton]

Then may I suggest that you practice your hand stitching on the same fabric that you will be using for your kilt. Denim is not a very good fabric for kilts. It is tough to stitch through. Good quality kilt fabrics are a dream to sew by hand. Using the same fabric to practice is by far the best advice anyone can give.

The Polyester/Rayon blends that are woven by Marton Mills are also a very nice fabrics, but are not usually used when making the Traditional style kilts that Barb teaches. These are usually thought of as fabrics used in the Contemporary course and are usually machine stitched.

If you do decide to attend the Contemporary course, "The Art of Kiltmaking" (TAoK) will give you the basics of kilt construction. In the Contemporary course we use "The Hand-Crafted Contemporary Kilt" as our text. All the students will receive a copy of THCCK when you arrive.

My first question above was "What style of kilt would you like to make?" This is a very important part of deciding which course is best for you. If you plan to hand stitch your kilt and the style is the Traditional that is in TAoK, then you will want to attend Barb's course.

If however you wish to stitch your kilt by machine, and plan on making a kilt in any other style than that in TAoK, then you want to sign up for the Contemporary course.

Do you wish to wear your kilt at any waist height other than the anatomical waist?
Do you wish to use fabrics other than kilt wool?
Do you wish to have a different apron width, different fastenings, or other styling features such as pockets, than that given in TAoK?

Then you want to tell Barb when you register, that you wish to take the Contemporary course.

Students can move freely between the two courses. They are just down the hall from each other. But the methods and the types of styling are quite different.

If you plan on machine stitching your kilt, you must bring your own machine to class.

[javankrona]

Steve

Thank you. That’s a lot to consider. But yes, my first kilt will be a traditional, natural waist build. But I can see that it is quite likely that my first kilt camp will be followed by a second, as I do also wish to learn the machine sewn, contemporary, PV kilt ... with pockets. I suspect that all of my kilts will be worn at the natural waist, as I’ve a nice pooch belly that doesn’t want to leave, and I don’t think I’ll much care for my kilt hanging under it ... that looks bad enough with jeans.

Again, thank you for your thoughts!

[Tobinn]

As this is a recent/current thread regarding sewing machines I hope no one minds my jumping in with a related specific question:
A friend of mine's has found herself in possession of four sewing machines one of which she plans on keeping for herself. She, being aware of my desire to try my hand at kilt making, mentioned that one of the remaining three machines is a Singer Featherweight like or similar to this one: (https://www.ebay.com/i/132607690016?chn=ps Please note that I only included the link for the picture.

She says it's in perfect working order and it might be a good machine for me.

What I've gotten out of the sewing machine discussion here at XMarks is you don't need all the bells and whistles but a good solid machine is pretty much all you need.

Not knowing anything about sewing machines (outside of home ec classed in middle school) can anyone in the Rabble offer some opinion on this?