Tweed kilts as more than Day Wear?

[Jock Scot]

Do you recall the setting you saw the two tweed kilts in? I’m guessing it was informal.

Yes, very informal! Both were stalkers, one down in Glen Lyon and one in Brae Roy. They were as hard as nails and wore the kilt out on the hill, stalking etc., in all weathers. One tweed was an Estate tweed and the other, as far as I am aware was not, I do not recall ever seeing them in trousers or a tartan kilt. Both lived a long and happy life and sadly, have now passed away.

[KnittedReenactor]

Jock, are you grouping every type of tweed together in your assessment? Or would you make a distinction with patterned and the newer tartan tweeds.
Because of its very nature as a tartan patterned fabric, one might believe it stands as acceptable substitute for traditional wool twill versions of the same pattern.

I am also including a link to Marton Mills, which makes some of these tweeds. So we can all see what is being discussed.
https://martonmills.com/product-cate...d-collections/https://martonmills.com/product-cate...d-collections/
They manufacture tweeds in various tartans, such as Stewart Royal, Black Watch, and Holyrood.

[Jock Scot]

Jock, are you grouping every type of tweed together in your assessment? Or would you make a distinction with patterned and the newer tartan tweeds.
Because of its very nature as a tartan patterned fabric, one might believe it stands as acceptable substitute for traditional wool twill versions of the same pattern.

I am also including a link to Marton Mills, which makes some of these tweeds. So we can all see what is being discussed.
https://martonmills.com/product-cate...d-collections/https://martonmills.com/product-cate...d-collections/
They manufacture tweeds in various tartans, such as Stewart Royal, Black Watch, and Holyrood.

It is impossible for me to know every tweed and tweed pattern even though I am a huge fan of tweed, so bearing that in mind I can only generalise, but with a certain amount of knowledge. I think that tweed is too rustic for formal evening wear.

I did a few years ago once seriously consider getting a tweed tartan kilt made. Macleod of Harris tweed tartan---my tartan and I will wear no other-----started to be made available and it still is, but after some serious heart searching and research, I decided that the colour shades were not to my liking, nor was the cloth as versatile as other wool cloth choices, so I didn't proceed. I really did not think the tweed tartan that I saw was suitable for formal events----- and still don't.

I hope this helps.

[Jock Scot]

Ooops sorry, dual post. Now deleted. J.S

[KnittedReenactor]

Yes, thank you Jock.
I can see exactly what you mean about the color variations from standard tartan, although the examples I saw had a kind of weathered/reproduction palette. The physical texture of the fabric is also field-rough vs the (relatively) formal-polished of standard tartan.

[OC Richard]

Yes selfcoloured or check tweed kilts were very popular in Victorian/Edwardian times and (based on the photographic evidence) fell out of favour by the 1930s.

But they seem to be making a comeback!

When I started wearing kilts in the 1970s I can't remember ever seeing anyone wearing a selfcoloured tweed kilt. Now I see them fairly often, especially in suits consisting of matching tweed jacket, waistcoat, and kilt.

Now if only the Victorian striped hose would make a comeback

[figheadair]

Jock, are you grouping every type of tweed together in your assessment? Or would you make a distinction with patterned and the newer tartan tweeds.
Because of its very nature as a tartan patterned fabric, one might believe it stands as acceptable substitute for traditional wool twill versions of the same pattern.

I am also including a link to Marton Mills, which makes some of these tweeds. So we can all see what is being discussed.
https://martonmills.com/product-cate...d-collections/https://martonmills.com/product-cate...d-collections/
They manufacture tweeds in various tartans, such as Stewart Royal, Black Watch, and Holyrood.

The Marton Mills tweed tartans are what I would describe as tweed i.e. made from a mixture, as opposed to a single coloured, yarn. On that basis, many of the Estate Checks, whilst called tweed, are in fact tartan. They may not use what one thinks of as standard tartan colours but the structure is the same as many of the early C19th Check patterns woven by Wilsons of Bannockburn. For example, here is an example of their Pattern No.209.

209.jpg

[Jock Scot]

I have wondered about that Peter, on rare occasion, as my rather hazy knowledge of the technicalities of weaving and the mysteries of the finer points of tartan and tweed construction is lacking, in consequence, most of the detail has usually eluded me. I suppose as I come from the "you make it and I will fly it" school of thought it is hardly surprising!

[Tobus]

The Marton Mills tweed tartans are what I would describe as tweed i.e. made from a mixture, as opposed to a single coloured, yarn. On that basis, many of the Estate Checks, whilst called tweed, are in fact tartan. They may not use what one thinks of as standard tartan colours but the structure is the same as many of the early C19th Check patterns woven by Wilsons of Bannockburn. For example, here is an example of their Pattern No.209.

I still get confused by this. Am I correct in my thinking below?

Tweed is defined by mixing multiple colours of wool before spinning into yarn, and it is tweed regardless of the pattern that is woven into the cloth. Where tartan, on the other hand, is always woven from single-coloured yarns and must generally follow a repeating pattern in both warp/weft. Does it make any difference in these definitions as to whether the yarns are worsted or not?

Anyway, when it comes to tweeds, I would desperately like to find someone who makes a tweed pattern like my favourite vintage jacket (below). Whilst it is most definitely a tweed with the yarns being a mixture of colours, the tartan-ish pattern of green, blue, and mustard is just lovely. If I could find material to make a matching waistcoat and perhaps even a kilt from this material, I'd be in hog heaven. You wouldn't happen to know of an existing tweed pattern that matches this, would you?

[Jock Scot]

Tobus.

Does your jacket by any chance, have a Harris Tweed certified trade label (with the orb) sewn inside it?