Many of you know that I have a very difficult time with how the word "traditional" is used. I have seen so many different ways to make kilts that I honestly do not believe any one is more traditional than another.
As the kilt I am working on may have been 'traditional' at one time it now does not fit into the same catagory as a kilt made in accordance with TAoK. So I do not feel that I am breaking some sort of rule by re-building this more in the Contemporary style.
This means that the next thing I did was to close up the left strap hole. To me, this is building in a weak point into the garment.
I then constructed a Contemporary style stabilizer and interfacing.
This is one of the hallmarks of the Contemporary style. The interfacing which provides the vertical stiffness and body to the kilt is three layers folded to take the curve of the Fell. Under each apron are two full layers. These are then machine stitched into one integrated unit. This is separate from the kilt itself so needs to be firmly anchored inside the kilt
The two narrow black strips you see in the photo above are the Stabilizer. This kilt will retain the third strap and buckle on the right side so a lower Stabilizer strip is needed for that just as the upper two straps and buckles. The Stabilizer forms the horizontal strength of the kilt sort of like a belt. These must be made from a fabric with no stretch. I use a woven fabric with heat fusible backing to 'tack' the Stabilizer into position which is then moved over to the sewing machine and stitched firmly to the interfacing.
The larger black part in the above photo is the piece of liner inside the apron. I install this under the interfacing and then fold it up. This totally encases the interfacing so it is not seen on my kilts.
This type of Interfacing and Stabilizer become one integrated unit. When you strap the kilt on you are actually wearing the Interfacing and Stabilizer. The outer Tartan fabric can then drape naturally outside without stress or distortion.
Here is one of my own kilts worn inside out without the liner covering the interfacing to show this.
This unit is then firmly anchored to the inside of the kilt to keep it in place and to prevent it from balling up during washing. Just as you do when stitching the Steeking line, the goal is to go through as many layers of the inside of the pleats without going all the way through and showing on the outside.
The customer will be in this morning for a fitting so I must finish the next step which is to get the waistbanding stitched on.
Bookmarks