What is it, and how do I wear it?

[OC Richard]

The reasons I believe it was intended to be worn with a belt are 1) images of people wearing this exact form of jacket show them wearing belts (cf the Alexander Brothers) and 2) if it were not intended to be worn with a belt I would expect there to be another pair of silver buttons at or near the waistline.

I'm guessing there's some other sort of fastening at or near the waistline which the belt would cover, either plain black buttons or some sort of hook & eye or press-button closure.

In any case we know it's not a one-off, but something in production, however limited. The Alexander Brothers regularly wore this style both in black and in claret.

Here they are wearing their black ones



Here they are wearing their claret ones

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsvZR2Hp1qY

I would love to come across this style in a vintage catalogue! Sans that, I would have to guess that this style was created around the end of WWII and probably had a brief popularity in the 1950s.

Apropos of my mentioning the impact of the WWII British Battle Dress jacket on civilian attire, both Saxon and Highland, here are the Alexander Brothers in jackets quite obviously inspired by the M49

[Dr Bee]

My first thoughts on seeing this post were that the little jacket was made for a show-business performer of some kind - and sure enough the Alexander Brothers picture posted by OC seemed to confirm this. However, I was looking through the website of a Glasgow firm called St Kilda Store who market their jackets under the name 'Gaelic Themes' (my Regulation Doublet is Gaelic Themes but from another retailer) and under the section headed 'Fully made-to-measure jackets' there is a listing for 'Double-Breasted Prince Charlie.' This jacket is not identical in that it has a different arrangement of cuff-buttons, however it is certainly in the same style - near enough.

[OC Richard]

Good find!

So St Kilda has it in production

https://stkildastore.com/Double-Brea...ade-to-Measure

I would quibble with calling it a Prince Charlie, however. What we call the Prince Charlie was originally called "the Coatee" and later "the Prince Charlie Coatee".

And the Prince Charlie is indeed a proper coatee, due to having the tails of a coatee.

This St Kilda jacket, like the ones the Alexander Brothers wore, is not a coatee as it lacks tails.

I would, rather, call it a Montrose with open lapels. (The Montrose ended at the waist all round.)

Here is the British military coatee worn c1800-1855, which the Prince Charlie Coatee was clearly copied from.

[Dr Bee]

I would quibble with calling it a Prince Charlie, however.

I would, rather, call it a Montrose with open lapels.

I quite agree with you about that. Interestingly and going by their latest advertising video, Kinloch Anderson are marketing the Montrose Doublet to be worn with the flaps buttoned back on themselves - essentially as an open jacket with lapels. However, as arbiters of taste that firm has lost any semblance of credibility (for me at least) - the same video and other stills on their website show Sheriffmuir doublets being worn with collar and tie - now THAT is a sad, sad sight.

[D.A. Guertin]

Well, I finally received it Friday night. The immediate question as to whether or not to wear a belt with it was answered post-haste by the presence of a hook at each side of the waist... Now, as to what it actually is, now that we have a better, more practical photo, remains for debate. Evidence points to it being at least some kith and kin to the Montrose though, as depicted below in an offering from Moss Brothers. (Pardon the overall kit - I'd been wearing an Argyll 5 minutes before. )

NewDoub.jpg
Mont.jpg

Best,

Darryl

[Howling Dingo]

Seem like a good fit for you mate, any kind of makers marks? Maybe it would look best with a white lace jabot.


Could be of been made for some kind of some kind of livery. Coachman or servants in a bit county house perhaps.