X Marks the Scot - An on-line community of kilt wearers.

   X Marks Partners - (Go to the Partners Dedicated Forums )
USA Kilts website Celtic Croft website Celtic Corner website Houston Kiltmakers

User Tag List

Results 1 to 10 of 17

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    31st March 18
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    112
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Howling Dingo View Post
    Worth a look ….


    https://usaknifemaker.com/scottish-dirk-blade.html


    Made by Windlass in India steel is 1085
    I don’t know that much about blade steel. What does 1085 mean, is it an indication of quality?

    I have seen a Windlass scimitar sort of sword thing once and I didn’t really like it, the finish on the blade seemed fairly cheap. This one looks to be a similar finish.

    To be fair, it does look like pretty good bang for your buck so if I can’t find anything better in my price range then that’s probably the way I’ll go.
    “The convents which the fathers had destroyed...the sons, rebuilt…”
    —Hereward the Wake, ‘Of the Fens’

  2. #2
    Join Date
    30th September 08
    Location
    Cypress, Texas
    Posts
    1,580
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    You might find this useful...

    https://www.thebalance.com/knife-steel-grades-2340185

    1084 is good steel if the heat treat is done properly, though it will rust if you allow it to stay wet. If you wipe it clean and keep it dry, it will develop a nice patina.

    Cheers,

    SM
    Last edited by ShaunMaxwell; 29th December 19 at 09:12 PM.
    Shaun Maxwell
    Vice President & Texas Commissioner
    Clan Maxwell Society

  3. The Following 2 Users say 'Aye' to ShaunMaxwell For This Useful Post:


  4. #3
    Join Date
    16th December 19
    Location
    Austraila
    Posts
    78
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    One thing to say is full tang is much easier than a stick tang knife.It is a heap of work to do the bolster on a stick tang blade.

    You are talking hours of work shapeing this bolster to fit the tang of the blade.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    31st March 18
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    112
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Howling Dingo View Post
    One thing to say is full tang is much easier than a stick tang knife.It is a heap of work to do the bolster on a stick tang blade.

    You are talking hours of work shapeing this bolster to fit the tang of the blade.
    How would that work? On my Indian made dirk the bolster seems to be basically a ferrule closed off on the side towards the handle with a slit the blade comes through. Going off memory as I don’t have it with me.
    On a quick internet search the bolsters look to be of the type on standard kitchen knives.

    How should the bolster be made? Is it structural? What does the tang construction have to do with it? I’m doing a traditional hidden tang construction.

    I don’t know too much about knifemakeing, so forgive my lack of knowledge of terminology etc.
    Thank you all for your help!
    “The convents which the fathers had destroyed...the sons, rebuilt…”
    —Hereward the Wake, ‘Of the Fens’

  6. #5
    Join Date
    16th December 19
    Location
    Austraila
    Posts
    78
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by McCracken140 View Post
    How would that work? On my Indian made dirk the bolster seems to be basically a ferrule closed off on the side towards the handle with a slit the blade comes through. Going off memory as I don’t have it with me.
    On a quick internet search the bolsters look to be of the type on standard kitchen knives.

    How should the bolster be made? Is it structural? What does the tang construction have to do with it? I’m doing a traditional hidden tang construction.

    I don’t know too much about knifemakeing, so forgive my lack of knowledge of terminology etc.
    Thank you all for your help!
    So you are looking at an factory made knife. You need to drill out and shape that small hole to a fine fit for the tang.I find this burns a lot of time to make this part.

    Worth a look..

    https://www.google.com/amp/s/chrismo...kko-knife/amp/

    Few more of mine..

    FB_IMG_1577681466898.jpg

    FB_IMG_1577681455659.jpg

  7. #6
    Join Date
    31st March 18
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    112
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Howling Dingo, I see what you mean. Thank you!
    “The convents which the fathers had destroyed...the sons, rebuilt…”
    —Hereward the Wake, ‘Of the Fens’

  8. #7
    Join Date
    16th December 19
    Location
    Austraila
    Posts
    78
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by McCracken140 View Post
    Howling Dingo, I see what you mean. Thank you!
    No worrys..Big subject for sure, I would do a bit of background reading. Hunt down a few good you tube video's.

    Belt sander and drill press are great tool to have for knifemaking.
    Last edited by Howling Dingo; 8th January 20 at 09:42 PM.

  9. The Following User Says 'Aye' to Howling Dingo For This Useful Post:


  10. #8
    Join Date
    31st March 18
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    112
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Progress on the Dirk Handle

    Here are some photos of my progress on the handle of the dirk. It is made from Katalox. I turned it and then sanded it down to 600 grit (the finest sandpaper I could buy locally).
    Then I rubbed it using the suede side of a loose piece of stamping leather— I used a mixture of about 10:1 water and oil which I polished into the surface of the Katalox using the leather. I watered down the oil, as I have previously used unadulterated oil on the “1.0” edition (read: failed trial run) of the dirk handle. I found that using only oil darkened the wood too much for my liking, so by adding water the oil will bring out the colour of the wood but the effect will be lessened, and the water evaporates off. That’s what I tell myself as my reasoning anyways haha.
    I will finish it using shellac. This works good with oily exotic woods and I have no fears about putting it on after having oiled the handle.

    I used a big ol pewter button from Ganderwick Creations as a pommel cap. I had bought a pair over a year ago and used one as a kilt pin and the other to replace a clan crest on a used sporran. Having since found a different insignia for the sporran I always thought this button would make a good pommel cap, and it will be cool to have a dirk matching my kilt pin. I may buy more for belt buckles, sgians etc— it will be quite the novelty to have a matching set of everything in my wardrobe lol.

    Now just to carve/sand the shoulders and attach the blade and bolster when they arrive in the post. And I can’t forget to sew a sheath and matching belt!
    “The convents which the fathers had destroyed...the sons, rebuilt…”
    —Hereward the Wake, ‘Of the Fens’

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

» Log in

User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.0