Sheriffmuir doublet and vest in tartan

[RichardtheLarge]

I’m happy to say that I finally pulled the trigger on a Sheriffmuir doublet and vest in tartan through USAKilts. This has been a grail item on my list for several years now. Here are the specs of the order:

House of Edgar Stewart Old Ancient 16 oz
Antique square buttons
Gauntlet cuffs
Flat epaulettes
No vest lapels
Vest on the bias

It will be a months long wait, I imagine, but I’m looking forward to posting pics and sharing the outcome. I’ve promised to do my best to reserve it for more formal events.

My only reservation in retrospect is whether I should have requested the doublet to be tailored on the bias also—I hadn’t really thought about this beforehand, and assume that they will build the doublet vertically without that specification.

[RockyR]

My only reservation in retrospect is whether I should have requested the doublet to be tailored on the bias also—I hadn’t really thought about this beforehand, and assume that they will build the doublet vertically without that specification.

Correct... we put in the order with the doublet to be cut "on the square" (NOT "on the bias). If you need that changed, email Lucas ASAP (like today) to have him change it with the tailors in Glasgow. Thanks!

[RichardtheLarge]

Correct... we put in the order with the doublet to be cut "on the square" (NOT "on the bias). If you need that changed, email Lucas ASAP (like today) to have him change it with the tailors in Glasgow. Thanks!

My feeling is that the bias cut vest only might really be the correct approach: it looks fantastic on your promotional page here:

https://www.usakilts.com/tartan-jacket-vest.html

And also on this doublet from Lady Chrystel:

http://www.lady-chrystel-kilts.com/i...tit-format.jpg

Do you have a feeling about the suitability of a bias versus square cut doublet, Rocky? You advertise the square cut doublet with the bis cut vest, which is always how I’d imagine it previously.

I should note, also, that square cut was King George’s approach:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped..._by_Wilkie.jpg

Thanks for writing to me!

[McMurdo]

That sounds impressive, I look forward to your review once it is in hand. I too would think the jacket would be vertically oriented without prior specification. Having said that, and speaking from experience, tartan head to toe can be wonderful, but you will get those that just do not like it. The vertical jacket may do well in making them more comfortable with your choice. The thing is a bias cut jacket would be simply incredible to me and a few others, while I would think the vast majority may believe it is over the top. Of course in closing I will say I look forward to seeing it and I think you should get the jacket you want. Perhaps it's not too late to contact them and see if a bias cut jacket is completely off the table.

[RockyR]

My personal preference would be for the way you have it configured. Jacket on the square and vest on the bias.

[RichardtheLarge]

My personal preference would be for the way you have it configured. Jacket on the square and vest on the bias.

I was lucky enough to stumble on this page featuring both styles of jacket (and a Sheriffmuir square cut, no less!)
http://www.evelynspence.co.uk/period/doublets.html

My feeling is that the Sheriffmuir is indeed better suited to the square cut—it reinforces the lines of the cutaway, and directs the observer to the face visually.

Moreover, a quick review of historical portraits shows that tartan doublets and jackets are generally square cut when present:
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/ea/a5/4d/e...tish-plaid.jpg
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b9/74...d4ecf3222e.jpg

[Jock Scot]

Oh absolutely, go with tartan dress jacket cut on the bias and a plain black waistcoat------very West Highland of Scotland! Although I am not sure that you will have many places to wear it.

I was ferreting about on google just and found an interesting picture of Michael Gove MP wearing the kilt at Buckingham Palace at a Banquet given by HM The Queen in honour of the American President when he visited last year. I am not cleaver enough to bring the picture up here, but if you google, Michael Gove kilts, the image should appear. You might be surprised at his attire, which is perfectly correct and proper, at a highest of high grade white tie formal event! It will certainly give some of you food for thought.

[neloon]

Gove in earlier days (he went to my old school).
https://i.dailymail.co.uk/1s/2019/06...0199597264.jpg
He always wore the kilt at Oxford Union debates which is possibly where this was taken.

Alan

[RichardtheLarge]

Oh absolutely, go with tartan dress jacket cut on the bias and a plain black waistcoat------very West Highland of Scotland! Although I am not sure that you will have many places to wear it.

I was ferreting about on google just and found an interesting picture of Michael Gove MP wearing the kilt at Buckingham Palace at a Banquet given by HM The Queen in honour of the American President when he visited last year. I am not cleaver enough to bring the picture up here, but if you google, Michael Gove kilts, the image should appear. You might be surprised at his attire, which is perfectly correct and proper, at a highest of high grade white tie formal event! It will certainly give some of you food for thought.

https://www.heraldscotland.com/resou...onsive-gallery

To my eyes, what he is wearing seems to be indistinguishable from “highland black tie”, based on the absence of tartan/diced hose (I remember your remark that a black bow tie and jabot are often used interchangeably as “full dress” neckwear in Scotland). Indeed, the solid hose would be the distinction that would make the difference in my view.

It’s clear that you disagree with my impression—what changes in his outfit’s elements, then, would transform it from white tie into black tie?

[Jock Scot]

https://www.heraldscotland.com/resou...onsive-gallery

To my eyes, what he is wearing seems to be indistinguishable from “highland black tie”, based on the absence of tartan/diced hose (I remember your remark that a black bow tie and jabot are often used interchangeably as “full dress” neckwear in Scotland). Indeed, the solid hose would be the distinction that would make the difference in my view.

It’s clear that you disagree with my impression—what changes in his outfit’s elements, then, would transform it from white tie into black tie?

In this case nothing!

Mr. Gove has chosen the conservative(no pun intended) route, but is still perfectly acceptable as white tie attire. Which is why it causes me to question many kilt attire attire choices here on this website for lesser formal events, such as a Burns Night. Yes indeed for some white tie Scottish events some might choose diced hose, Mary Jane shoes, a tartan jacket cut on the bias, or velvet jackets and so on, but Mr. Gove's choice is one that many here would make.

In truth we don't need to dress up in all this tartan jackets, jabots, diced hose, fancy shoes stuff for white tie events and if we do choose that attire its most certainly over egging the attire for lesser events. Which has been my point in all this. AND it saves some----a lot---of money!