Gauntlet/Argyll Cuff

[MacCathmhaoil]

There are 4 with gauntlet cuffs in my collection, two tweed day jackets and 2 velvet evening jackets. The two tweed jackets and the 1 velvet argyle jacket with piping on the cuff date from the 1970’s. The other velvet jacket, a balmoral, date’s from 1958. Buttons on the velvet argyle are held on by small cotter pins with retaining discs, this allows the buttons to be easily exchanged or removed for polishing.

[Highland Logan]

There are 4 with gauntlet cuffs in my collection, two tweed day jackets and 2 velvet evening jackets. The two tweed jackets and the 1 velvet argyle jacket with piping on the cuff date from the 1970’s. The other velvet jacket, a balmoral, date’s from 1958. Buttons on the velvet argyle are held on by small cotter pins with retaining discs, this allows the buttons to be easily exchanged or removed for polishing.

Thank you for sharing the photos of your jackets.

Frank

[Highland Logan]

Frank,

Checked mine to see if it was any help to you but mine is sewn down all the way around. Looks like you've gotten everything you need here but just in case it's of use, you can have a look at or borrow mine any time.

Shane

Thanks Shane.

Frank

[PinellasPaul]

A very fine thread indeed!

The Gauntlet/Argyll Cuff is a beautiful detail. I would enjoy owning and wearing one of these quite a lot.

Thanks for pointing out this thread OC Richard.

[Garth]

I have tought myself how to customise a jacket because of my frame. I am by no means a tailor however have applied myself and have sewn all my jackets to date. This is a step by step pic tutorial using the existing materials as well as the canvas that I use to make my kilts:

[OC Richard]

I did that many years ago, modified a "Saxon" jacket into an Argyll jacket.

There have been numerous threads on that topic on XMarks over the years, it might interest you to see what others have done along those lines.

Yes shortening the jacket should give enough fabric for the pocket flaps, cuffs, and epaulettes.

The problems I encountered were

1) the pockets on Saxon jackets are too low and usually too far to the front

2) Saxon jackets often button too low

3) there's usually a buttonhole right in the middle of where you want the curve of the lower front of the jacket to be.

I'm talking about comparing an ordinary Saxon jacket to an ordinary traditional Argyll jacket. Especially nowadays you'll see kilt jackets with various unusual cuts, and Saxon jackets too.

About #1, I found a Saxon jacket with patch pockets which I removed. This allowed me to place the new pockets at their correct position for a traditional Argyll jacket. Also, sometimes Saxon jackets can be found with pockets that are a bit higher and more around to the side, which makes for an acceptable kilt jacket.

About #2, it should be easy to make a new, higher buttonhole and re-press the lapels.

About #3, I was able to sew the buttonhole shut in such a way that it wasn't too noticeable, given the heavy slightly fuzzy tweed.

[OC Richard]

About making your own Argyll (gauntlet) cuffs, obviously the style seen left and centre are pretty easy to make, while the style on the right is a complex thing with its own lining etc.

[polarflea]

There are 4 with gauntlet cuffs in my collection, two tweed day jackets and 2 velvet evening jackets. The two tweed jackets and the 1 velvet argyle jacket with piping on the cuff date from the 1970’s. The other velvet jacket, a balmoral, date’s from 1958. Buttons on the velvet argyle are held on by small cotter pins with retaining discs, this allows the buttons to be easily exchanged or removed for polishing.

Thank you for sharing the detail of your velvet jackets - the insight is helpful for some tailoring projects I have underway.

[figheadair]

the 1 velvet argyle jacket with piping on the cuff date from the 1970’s. The other velvet jacket, a balmoral, date’s from 1958. Buttons on the velvet argyle are held on by small cotter pins with retaining discs, this allows the buttons to be easily exchanged or removed for polishing.

Those are nice buttons, presumably silver if they require polishing? They remind me of the ones that the Duke of Rothesay wears. This jacket is obviously bespoke, who made it?

[MacCathmhaoil]

The sleeve on the right belongs to a balmoral type doublet made by William Anderson in 1958 for an uncle. The buttons are riveted cut steel buttons that came from one of the great-grandfathers court dress and are original to the doublet.
The sleeve on the left has sterling silver buttons that are copies cast from the original buttons on the balmoral. A friend is a jeweller and cast them for me, thankfully at cost! They can be removed to polish them but I found it’s much easier/quicker to use a button plate that slips behind them to protect the velvet and polish them in place. I did have extras cast of the smaller buttons for a waistcoat and matching cuff links.