What do I need to build a handmade kilt

[Red1leader]

Actually, for your measurements, I wouldn't be inclined to make a waist/pleats differential at the hip of 1". But it's important to know how you did the hip measurement. Did you measure directly, or did you use the towel method?

I did it directly with my wife taking the measurements.

I have your book, great information.

I am an S shape, where my stomach sticks out and my backside does the same.

I am trying to pleat to the line and ended up with 27 pleats and 1/16 of an inch difference between the hip and waist, does this sound OK.

I have not started sewing yet, just basted the aprons, even the A line looks a little straight from waist to hip.

[Barb T]

Hi RedLeader1

Because you haven't started sewing yet, I think you might want to re-take your measurements using the towel method.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...80/index2.html

Here are the instructions that I send people for measuring using the towel method:

If you have a belly, do an additional measurement as follows. Roll a towel up and put it under your belly to kind of fill the space. Be sure it's not sticking out past your belly, and don't wrap it around to the side. Have someone measure around your hips again but around the towel in front as well. That will give a measurement that will help the kilt fit better - you'll be able to snug it in to the small of the back, and it will hang straighter down from the waist.

I think your kilt will fit better, given your shape, if you re-measure using the towel method, use that measurement for the hips, and then split the hip evenly between the apron and pleats. You'd need to lay out the apron again and re-calculate the splits and pleat sizes, but I think you'll be happier with the result.

It's a method that many of us use, and I'm sorry that this isn't in the book. Elsie was quite adamant that the book reflected the methods she learned as an apprentice. Elsie is also adamant that a pleat should not be pinned before stitching. I don't agree, and I urge people, especially first time kiltmakers, to use pins to hold a pleat while you stitch it. Here is a post I wrote on this a long time ago:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...not-pin-72250/

I've also just made a post that has all the things that I do differently from TAoK:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...tmaking-96538/

[Red1leader]

WOW, Thanks for that.

I think my numbers will be a lot better, hip measurements come up to 49 1/2".

Plus 1/2"

So now:
Waist: 44 1/2"
Hip: 50"

Splits Front / Rear:
Waist: 23 1/4" / 21 1/4
Hip: 25" / 25"

Does this sound right?

It has worked out as

25 pleats
7/8" at the Waist
1" at the Hips
8 5/16" fell

By the way if you look at my avatar I am pleating to the thin silver line to the right of the wide red, and the wide red is my centre apron line.

[Barb T]

Hi RL1 - so sorry I totally missed this. Things were a bit chaotic here last week. I'll look at your #s this morning and get back to you.

[Barb T]

I think my numbers will be a lot better, hip measurements come up to 49 1/2".

Plus 1/2"

So now:
Waist: 44 1/2"
Hip: 50"

Splits Front / Rear:
Waist: 23 1/4" / 21 1/4
Hip: 25" / 25"

Does this sound right?

It has worked out as

25 pleats
7/8" at the Waist
1" at the Hips
8 5/16" fell

By the way if you look at my avatar I am pleating to the thin silver line to the right of the wide red, and the wide red is my centre apron line.

This sounds like it will work fine! Keep us posted on your progress.

[Red1leader]

Thanks Barb, no problem life gets in the way sometimes

Managed to finish the pleats after ripping out a few times, looks ok and the lines are close.

IMG_20200526_164134 (2).jpg

I assume that the stitching will mould into the wool better after pressing.

IMG_20200526_164148 (2).jpg

Out of interest, why do we use the beeswax on the thread?

[Barb T]

Looks great!

Here's a great thread with info on waxing thread: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-thread-73205/

[Red1leader]

Looks great!

Here's a great thread with info on waxing thread: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-thread-73205/

WOW it is amazing what you can learn here