Inverted X-Kilt pleats

[nkosuohene]

Okay, so I have completed my first X-kilt (photos to follow) and have enough material left to make a second one. In a moment of brotherly love, I offered to make one for my next brother. He initially scoffed at the idea and then accepted the offer. He provided me the required measurements, leading to a new challenge. Unlike examples provided in the X-Kilt instructions of kilt wearers with butt measurements exceeding waist circumference, my brother measures in at 39 inches measured at the belly button and 36 inches measured at the buttocks. This leads me to ask how one proceeds in this situation. My brother wonders how he will keep his kilt hoisted and I am wondering how to go about tapering the pleats above the fell. How does one decide the number of pleats/width of the over apron? Normally this would be based on the rump measurement - is that still the case? I'm counting on solutions from this esteemed group and thank you in advance.

[Steve Ashton]

When measuring the hips you have to take into account that the front apron will fall straight down from the belly.
So pull the tape measure out in front to simulate that. Then measure again.
It is very rare for a guy to have a waist larger than the hips if pulling the tape out in front as we all stick out a little in the back.