Made to measure jacket recommendations

[ObiSeanKenobi]

I had a jacket and waistcoat made to my size by Kilts4Less. I selected a Harris Tweed and they made and shipped the jacket.

Is that waistcoat self-backed or some kind of satin/rayon/synthetic? I've had a really hard time finding anything with a full tweed back.

[kingandrew]

If you want a tweed back on your vest, it will be a special order for sure. Most tailors default to backing the vest with the same material as the lining of the jacket. It's smoother for movement and slightly less warm to wear.

However, a tweed-backed vest will look good to wear on its own, without the jacket. So it is a versatile garment.

I have a tweed-backed vest that was custom made by a tailor in Beijing. It was their first attempt at a kilt jacket and vest, and they had to work from pictures I gave them (many from this forum).

But when I worked with a real Highland tailor in Hong Kong, they used the lining material for the back of my vest.

So much depends on the tailor you are using for the job and what they are willing to do.

Andrew

[ktk1961]

Splendid job! That looks great with your kilt and the hose and shoes work very well indeed.

Thanks very much for saying so!

[Touchstone]

Is that waistcoat self-backed or some kind of satin/rayon/synthetic? I've had a really hard time finding anything with a full tweed back.

USA Kilts (who else?) offers vests with an optional tweed back:
https://www.usakilts.com/tweed-vest.html

[OC Richard]

My understanding is that if you're going to wear the waistcoat under a jacket you want the satin back because with the satin-on-satin the jacket and waistcoat can smoothly move as you move.

Thing is, Pipe Bands nowadays usually wear waistcoats alone. Bands perform with their backs towards the audience, and the satin fades and discolours over time.

So, bands have tended to want waistcoats with matching fabric front and rear (generally Barathea).

About made-to-measure, make sure the tailor is absolutely clear how they will interpret the measurements you provide.

I've encountered, both with kilts and jackets, UK makers adding 2 to 6 inches to the measurements I've given them.

In fact with kilt jackets I get a better fit ordering standard sizes off-the-peg. Happily my proportions match the standard ones.

[ObiSeanKenobi]

My understanding is that if you're going to wear the waistcoat under a jacket you want the satin back because with the satin-on-satin the jacket and waistcoat can smoothly move as you move.

Thing is, Pipe Bands nowadays usually wear waistcoats alone. [...]

My reasoning for wanting a self-backed waistcoat is exactly because I want something I can wear without a jacket. My ideal situation would probably be a jacket with two matching (or odd) waistcoats, one self-backed and one satin-backed.

I've encountered, both with kilts and jackets, UK makers adding 2 to 6 inches to the measurements I've given them.

In fact with kilt jackets I get a better fit ordering standard sizes off-the-peg. Happily my proportions match the standard ones.

I'm a stock-standard 40R in US sizing, which has worked out well for purchasing OTR suits and coats, except in the odd case when the sleeves are disproportionately long or short from the manufacturer.

[Riverkilt]

If you haven't pulled the trigger yet, I'd recommend you talk with Kathy Lare of Kathy's Kilts in Albuquerque, NM. I've purchased 15 of her kilts now and never a flaw.

[R100PDave]

I'm looking to have a kilt jacket made. I'm thinking either a braemar or argyle cuff in tweed or barathea. I was thinking having St. Kildas make it, but I would love any other recommendations the Rabble may have.

Last year when I was gearing up for our wedding I had my PC jacket and vest done by St.Kildas via Kinnaird in Saskatoon. Turned out fantastic! No regrets here!

[OC Richard]

I had my PC jacket and vest done by St.Kilda via Kinnaird in Saskatoon. Turned out fantastic!

I ordered a jacket directly from the St Kilda Shop, which is the same firm as Gaelic Themes, and R G Hardie.

They followed my chest measurement but added 6 inches to the waist, going against both their own size chart and the measurement I gave them.

They also made it "long" though I didn't ask for that.

When I contacted them they said custom orders couldn't be returned.

Possibly better to order through local shop like you did, perhaps the shop knew how to phrase the order to get St Kilda to make the correct size.

[Macman]

My tweed jacket from Gaelic Themes fit perfectly, and that was because I ordered it through Freedom Kilts, and Steve measured me up.