What kind of jacket is this?

[piperalpha]

Is this a variation of a sheriffmuir doublet? I've always love this coat. Maybe I'll have to have one made to match. I've never seen anything like it. The photo is of Pipe Major G.S. MacLennan.

[Jock Scot]

Is this a variation of a sheriffmuir doublet? I've always love this coat. Maybe I'll have to have one made to match. I've never seen anything like it. The photo is of Pipe Major G.S. MacLennan.

Well alright, you like the jacket and you are thinking of getting one made and fair enough. I am just wondering though, how often you might wear it? Unless you are a very busy piper or some such ,or ,your social life is spent at a lot of formal evening events then, is the expense justified?

[figheadair]

Before the early 20th century there were numerous variations on a theme; these black jackets and waistcoats were eventually standardised into what became the Regulation Doublet. In my opinion, it is still the best looking of the modern styles for evening wear.

Meyer & Mortimer Doublet 1942.jpg

[piperalpha]

Before the early 20th century there were numerous variations on a theme; these black jackets and waistcoats were eventually standardised into what became the Regulation Doublet. In my opinion, it is still the best looking of the modern styles for evening wear.

I quite like the look of the regulation doublet. Before the 1950's most civilian pipers wore them to compete. I'll probably have the Jacket in the photo made. I haven't seen a nicer example.

[figheadair]

I quite like the look of the regulation doublet. Before the 1950's most civilian pipers wore them to compete. I'll probably have the Jacket in the photo made. I haven't seen a nicer example.

Thank you. It was made by Meyer & Mortimer in 1942. I also have one made in 1927, the workmanship on both far exceeds anything I've seen today.

[piperalpha]

I quite like the look of the regulation doublet. Before the 1950's most civilian pipers wore them to compete. I'll probably have the Jacket in the photo made. I haven't seen a nicer example.

I'm very happy with the argyll jacket I purchased from Kinloch Anderson in 2011. It cost quite a bit more than a regular argyll but it was well worth it.

[OC Richard]

Keep in mind that terms like "regulation doublet" and "Sheriffmuir doublet" are fairly recent. The earliest use of "regulation doublet" I see in my old catalogues in the 1938 Rowans using "regulation doublet" for what most other firms are just calling "doublet" at that time. Paisleys, oddly, call their ordinary doublet the "Strathmore".

The doublet was the most common jacket in Highland Dress throughout the Victorian period, the only other style being a shortened Highland version of the ordinary tweed "sack coat". This ordinary coat with curved lower front panels was being called the "Argyll" jacket by the 1920s.

Therefore doublets were doublets. I can't find any modifying terms, no terms indicating different styles of doublets.

However in Victorian times and up to the 1920s (when doublets were losing favour to new jacket styles such as the Prince Charlie Coatee and the Montrose Shell Jacket) doublets existed in a huge variety of form.

The defining thing, the thing that made a doublet a doublet, was the presence of tashes or pocket-flaps all around, two in front, two in back.

The cuffs were usually the Gauntlet style but slash cuffs, point cuffs, round cuffs, and no cuffs are also seen.

The front treatment, the type of lapels, the number and placement of buttons, the height of the "V", could be anything.

And to emphasise again none of these variations were called anything other than "doublet".

Here are ten doublets c1860-c1910, I tried to find the widest variety of treatment I could. Note that the front opening and lapels (if any) could be any style whatever, any button arrangement whatever, single or double breasted, and all are doublets.

[piperalpha]

Those are some great photos Richard. I love seeing what the Scot’s were wearing 100+ years ago( those fortunate enough to afford a kilt )

[piperalpha]

Here's a different photo of the Jacket. It's interesting to see how the highland dancers dressed in the 1920's

[figheadair]

Here's mine from 1927. Bespoke and reminincent of some in Richard's collage.

1927 Doublet.jpg 1927 Doublet-1.jpg