What is this bonnet/headgear called

[kingandrew]

As Steve notes, both the Basque beret and Scottish bonnets of various names are simple knit or felted caps, of a sort found in many cultures, as they are about the simplest head coverings to make. Of course, such items will evolve and get elaborated over time, as we can see with the selection of bonnets we have in Highland dress today(tams, balmorals, glengarries, and so on).

To add to Anne the Pleaters point, wool was the great cash crop and export of medieval Britain, much as oil is for today's Saudi Arabia. To help promote wool, a law was passed requiring all men in the kingdom to wear wool caps. Of course, given the chilly climate of the time and need to spend much of your day outdoors, I imagine most people would have been sporting whatever affordable and warm cap, hat, or hood they could find, regardless of statutes from king and parliament.

It is interesting to compare the actual images of 18th century bonnet from paintings with the costume designs for the Outlander TV show. Looking back on a romanticized past, the Victorians tended to imagine elaborate folk costumes, as we see illustrated in the complicated kilt outfits they show on ancient Celts in some history books from that era. Today, we seem to imagine people from any earlier period as hopelessly primitive compared to us. And certainly, the Highlands in the 1740s lacked many "modern conveniences" that we are accustomed to, as did every place in the world at that time. Yet people were well capable of clothing themselves in a functional manner. Anyone who looks at costume movies from the past will notice how 1970s the clothes in Robert Redford's Great Gatsby look, while De Caprio's Gatsby is dressed in the "skinny jeans" cut of the 2010s. So I guess we are always projecting our own expectations backward.

Andrew

[OC Richard]

The thing that strikes my eye most when comparing our early clear images of Highland Dress with modern Hollywood depictions is the dullness of the latter.

Note how the makers of Rob Roy and Outlander created a drab brown past, in striking contrast to the colourful dress of actual 18th century Highlanders.

It's a trope of sorts, having people in earlier times all in brown and often smeared in mud.



Yes those early portraits are all members of the aristocracy! Though rare, there are a few mid-18th century paintings showing commoners.

The Highlanders in this painting were painted from life; the artist drew sketches and took notes from actual Highland participants in the Battle of Culloden. Contrast the show of colourful tartans with the dull drab Hollywood version of the battle.

To point, you don't see any massive baggy bonnets at that time.

[OC Richard]

BTW I just found these on Etsy, as an answer to the original question "what is this bonnet/headgear called?" they call it an "Outlander inspired Scots bonnet"

https://www.etsy.com/listing/6552585...mium?ga_order=

[OC Richard]

It's interesting that the article calls it a Balmoral, Richard. I've called it both Balmoral and TOS, but it was called a Balmoral when I was in the Reserves.

Yes it does make one wonder when the term "Tam O Shanter" (the name of a fictional character) came into use.

It also makes one wonder when the term "Balmoral" came into use. In the 18th century, when there was no other sort of Highland hat, it's usually referred to as "the Scotch bonnet".

In any case that article is contrasting the new hat with the Glengarry, and for sure it looks more like a Balmoral than it does a Glengarry.

My point was that the traditional Scots bonnet, which goes back to an unknown origin, has always been knit and formed, while the mass-produced Army hat introduced during World War One is made in an entirely new and novel manner, being cut according to a pattern in several pieces from flat woven yardage, and sewn together with seams.

Obviously a resemblance to the traditional bonnet was intended, though the result was a rather different shape and size.

It's possible that modern Hollywood costumers saw these and imagined that they resembled ancient Scottish bonnets, which they don't.

BTW I just looked over quite a few photos of the sheet-fabric TOS's being worn in WWI and WWII and even on active service I don't see any as shapeless and floppy as the Outlander hats.

[super8mm]

They say "Based off 17th century pattern" but nothing more about the pattern being from some highland clan or anything more explicit about the pattern.

Could it be that they are both round??? :LOL"

[OC Richard]

They say "Based off 17th century pattern"

I'd like to see the pattern!

To me the look of the Outlander Highlanders has more to do with our currently popular "hipster" styles with the big beards and floppy hats.

Personally I think the Outlander hats' look has far more to do with the hippie/hipster/rasta "slouch beanie" than it does with any Scottish bonnet.

[super8mm]

It is sort of like genealogy, folks make claims about ancestors but when you ask them what documentation they found you never hear back from them

[Pleater]

I did read a description of Scots wearing blue bonnets in a historical context - but did not pay much attention as it simply corroborated what I thought I knew - it described the bonnets as being 'in the main' blue, or formerly so, but there were also those of grey, greenish and all shades possible from the natural fleece, and in size and shape very various, some being caught into folds by the insertion of a sprig of greenery or the handle of a spoon, but all falling or flopping haphazardly over the eyes, an ear or nape just as they might fall.
The scene was a group off soldiers arriving at a military encampment - but in what book I could not say, and if it was pure fiction or historic fact is anyone's guess.

Having been wearing one of my own making to keep warm over the last few days, they are very effective insulation.

Anne the Pleater

[Jock Scot]

A few minor observations that may help.

1. The term "bonnet" is used in Scotland as a general term for a hat, any hat.

2. The balmoral style of headwear is often called a "balmoral bonnet".

3. A "tam" is similar to a balmoral, but not of the same design and is often the choice of the kilt wearing military.

4. The more baggy the headwear the more theatrical it looks. Is that a look you want? Many prefer to avoid that look.

5. The balmoral when worn by civilians generally avoids the shrunken, shaved and rather tailored military look. The rather more "used", or "the hundred mission" look is more usual.

6. The flat topped, often severely ironed" "helipad" style balmoral , even the lopsided "helipad" is best avoided.

7. The "glengarry" is often not the choice that non band members choose, particularly in Scotland.

8. Bare-headed is often the choice of those in Scotland. Although The balmoral is often worn when the elements demand, including the sun( with little air pollution in Scotland, sun burn can and does catch the unwary out).

In more extreme weather conditions outwith the UK then a broad brimmed hat is useful. Think along the lines of a panama, Aussie slouch hat, Tilly, or some such. The choice that some in Scotland choose for informal wear with the kilt in our rather unreliable climate is the tweed deer stalker or tweed fore 'n aft .

[MacKenzie]

OCR, I really enjoy your contributions to this forum, especially on matters such as this. However, as you've stated, these are staged portraits.

You can't glean any more about what people wore than you can from photos of people from the American West in the 1800's. Day-to-day life - or battle - simply wasn't captured on canvas or film. Do we think that every cowpoke in the American west wore a crisp Stetson?


I don't think those caps perched pertly on the head would have stayed put for a stroll across the (muddy) thoroughfare much less a moment in battle. Same for the garrison caps in today's US military (although I think some Marine Sergeants glue them on ).


I'll hazard a guess that what's being called the "outlander hat" here, which is more like a slouchy watch cap (toboggan), or something that closely resembled it, was probably more common than anything else because it was simple to knit and, moreover, kept your bloody head warm and somewhat dry.

I mean, look back through this thread. Every "traditional" hat has one thing in common. There's an "up" side and there's a "slouch" side. Where did that come from? I don't think any military or anybody trying to be a trend-setter said, "Let's go with a hat that's droopy on one side."


ETA... The "hipster hat", in it's original iteration was to keep the dreads out of the weather. So, again, a copy-cat.