Trip to Scotland 1983: Four and half months in the Highlands and Islands

[DCampbell16B]

I took the Tube from Heathrow to King's Cross Station. For part of the ride at least I saw some of London. Shrubs and trees looked similar to those in the States, although the buildings are different. So are the accents when you hear them. Saw working men pour out tea for break. The gardens were of course spectacular. I was able to catch the 11:00 Flying Scotsman train north (Intercity 125). Due in Edinburgh 3:50. At least the first part of the trip looked similar to home, at least the flatter and more rolling parts near Lake Ontario (I grew up and live in the last northern hills of the Appalachians, but have many relatives up there). (I have a note here: "Customs efficient, subway effiecient, train efficient. What's wrong with our Gov't and economy?") It is a little hard to read some of my notes sometimes, especially the first part in in pencil.

I generally kept track of the money I spent. Some of the older UK members here might find it interesting to be reminded what prices were like in 1983. I think £1.50 Heathrow to King's Cross, £35 to Edinburgh, 54p for a sandwich, 37p for a Pepsi.

The train had a "mechanical fault" at 11:40. I had no way of knowing where we were. Flat as a pancake though. Rolling 6 min later. Most of the people on the train were older folk (a sprinkling of high school and college age kids). It was somewhat odd to think of them as having lived through World War II and just carrying on.

Around noon in very flat country, with drains. Strangely I don't feel out of place here, even though the country is flat. One word that describes England though is "tame".

12:03 stop in Peterborough. There was beginning to be more Scottish accents in the car. A mother, son and daughter joined my table for four. She was Scottish, from Campbelltown, and was helpful with some advice. Durham at 2:11, Newcastle (dingy in the cloud), then Tyne (pretty big),Morpeth at 2:39, and then the North Sea, Berwick. I was told the bright yellow bushes that were fairly common were gorse. A lot of grass and sheep.

And the border.

[Tomo]

If you hit the flat lands between London and Peterborough you would have been in the Fens (low lying marshland around Ely and Cambridge, it's mainly farmland and originally was drained using the polder system - hence the drainage channels - locally known as dykes). I used to work in Cambs and lived out in the Fens for a short time in a place called Manea - your train would have taken you through the village - if you'd have done this journey in the winter when they flood the fields you would have travelled for some miles on an embankment with nothing but water on either side of the tracks.

[DCampbell16B]

Arrival: 23 June

Green open fields, pastures, some trees, rolling hills. I noticed they plowed their fields vertically. In spite of all the green, it gives the feeling of being incredibly barren.

The train arrived at Waverly Station at 4:00pm. I used 20p to call the pastor I had been referred to. His daughter picked up. When I asked the best thing to do for a place to stay, I was told I would stay with them. I was told to take the 26 bus to Drumbrae Drive. It was a walk from there and she would meet me.

I missed the first bus. I didn't have the 30p for the fare. I had to go and get change and come back. And I didn't make many new friends with my backpack and suitcase...



I wasn't all that happy dragging that suitcase (no wheels...) with that pack on my back.

But the family was very gracious and gave me my own room. I didn't feel that bad from jetlag. I almost did fall asleep on the train, as I got no sleep on the plane thank you incredibly bad turbulence). 10pm and still light out, which is new to me. The pastor is going to show me around tomorrow.

24 June

The pastor drove me around Edinburgh, then up by Arthur's Seat and the 11th C Norman Church in Duddington. Then he turned me loose. I spent an hour on Princes Street. I needed to buy a daywear jacket, so stopped in several places.

I spent 30p on the bus up to the Castle (it was several days before I found out you pay by the distance you go, not a flat 30p. Dumb tourist).

I was several days in Edinburgh. Almost all of them spent in some sort of museum, so I won't bore you with details. Those of you in such things will have access much better to them. Because at that time I was into reenacting, I took pictures of clothing, dirks, targes, sporrans, and whatever, as well as made detailed drawings in my journal. I had written ahead to the National Portrait Gallery to request to see the portrait of John (The Bank) Campbell of Lochlane, as I was interested in the tartan he was wearing. (Peter MacDonald has since produced a woven copy of that tartan.) I was treated most kindly by Miss Helen Smails at that time, and given permission to photograph paintings as long as it was for my personal use and not for publication. Therefore, I further tales of Edinburgh will be of more general interest.

[Silmakhor]

So far, this is a wonderful read. Reminds me of spending a few months in Germany at age 19 as part of a college semester abroad.

How incredibly generous people can be! That's astounding and wonderful. Thanks!

[DCampbell16B]

First meal I was offered was liver and chips. I am still surprised I could get the liver down. I shut up and ate it.

Pastor H* driving me around Edinburgh. We passed a school which he said was integrated, meaning both Catholic and Protestant students. He said tThey were kept apart for classes, brought together for recess to allow them to fight, then separated for classes again.

Pastor R and his wife invited me for tea, and later supper. They were an older couple and lived on the second floor (first floor UK). The stairs were narrow and went to a landing and then up. White painted on the walls to help with the light I assume. For tea we had tea in a cozy, sausage rolls, and small buttered pancakes which were slightly sweet, and a lemon cake. Also later for a main meal they served chicken, potatoes, rice, carrots and peas.

With the H family for breakfast they served eggs sunny side up ( I can’t stand eggs, but I put on a brave face and got them down!).

In the church service they sang “All Things Bright and Beautiful”. I couldn’t believe it.

On the 28th visited the National Portrait Gallery. Made many notes and drawings. I was brought to one of the staff rooms and given a binder of black and white photos of portraits and allowed to draw details from it.

First day in Edinburgh I worked my way down the Royal Mile looking for a good affordable daywear jacket. Visited Hugh MacPherson, John Morrison, Discount Highland Supply. Also Leith Army Stores for no particular reason. Ended up in the Grassmarket. I am not certain now, but I think I went back and got my jacket at John Morrison in the Lawnmarket. A Lovat Green Crail for £90. I still wear it. Hugh MacPherson had a similar jacket >£90, worsted kilt at £125 and heavy at £150.

Saw the Greyfriers Bobby monument.

Traffic almost got me looking the wrong way. Stupid tourist stunt.

St.Giles was awe inspiring, but I only stepped in the door as there was a service in progress.

Have seen five or six men in kilts.

One evening I walked a footpath to Corstorphin Hill overlooking most of the city.

Bloody whins are sharp as thistles!

On to Stirling next.

* I stayed with Pastor H’s family. I don’t want to use names as there are still family members living. I will likely do this in other places as well.

(Pictures to come)

[DCampbell16B]

Edinburgh toward Castle


Edinburgh Castle from Herriot School


Edinburgh Castle from Grassmarket (very imposing)


Edinburgh from Corstorphine Hill


Edinburgh across an honest to goodness cricket pitch from the second floor of a double decker bus

(I may reupload these in more detail. This was a test)

Click on the picture for a larger image.

[DCampbell16B]

(Please forgive the jumping back and forth in tenses. Some of this is my memories and some is direct from my journal.)

Edinburgh Addenda: On my last day in Edinburgh the Queen arrived in town, although I didn’t see her. Prince Philip was opening something in the afternoon. I wandered around the Grassmarket

I was sitting at a table for Sunday dinner with the pastor, his son, and a friend. One of them asked me my plans, to which I replied that I was “going to bum around the Highlands”. This drew funny looks and faces! It took me three seconds to realize what I had said, after which I had to explain how the word “bum” is used in the States.

As I was checking different stores for a daywear jacket, I was in one where a little boy, maybe 3 years old, was being fitted for a kilt and jacket for some occasion. The dad and the shop assistant were trying to get them on him. The boy had his back to a full length mirror. When they finally got the kilt and jacket straightened out they turned the boy around. When the boy saw himself, the crying stopped instantly, and he had such a look of joy and wonder on his face.

I caught the Stirling bus about 9:30. Met a piper from the Gordons. £1.70 for the ride. Could see the top of the Forth Bridge in the distance. Everything was very green. Passed 3 or 4 slag piles, possibly from coal mines? Passed through Linlithgow and Falkirk. Saw the hills to the north getting higher.

The hostel in Stirling was closed until 5:00. Got something to eat and ate overlooking the Carse. Standing there I am on my own and not “lost”. I know where I am going and am no longer answerable to anyone.

10p phone (don’t remember who I called)
63p lunch
1.70 bus
1.00 castle entrance
2.30 to stay at the youth hostel
35p to store the suitcase
18p for tea
75p fish and chips

Stirling Castle has better views than Edinburgh Castle (possibly I noted that because the Esplanade was basically bleachers). Stirling feels more available to visitors. The Argylls have an info branch here, and the 23rd Cadet training company is here. The Argylls were in Cyprus until June ’84, then transferring to Craigiehall.

I went through the museum, but I won’t bore you with my notes.

Trying to decide about going to Cupar and Comrie, and eventually Perth.

Hostel warder kindly looked after my pack while I went to shop for some souvenir.

Asked one of the guides at on the Castle parade ground the name of the mountain to the north. “Those are the Grampians. Been there for years.” (Well, I had wanted to know the name of a particular one, but he was funny enough I let it slide.)

That night I stayed in Argyll’s Lodging, so I got to stay in a building which belonged to the chief of the clan (not really that big a deal...). I understand that now it is a museum. Then it was pretty spartan, and work was ongoing.

Bought jam, oatcakes, bread for meals.

For those of you unfamiliar with Youth Hostels here is an introduction as to how it was then (there have been changes in the intervening years). You joined by paying a fee, and were issued a pass card with your picture. You were provided a bed in a dormitory and a place to cook your meals and eat. A hostel warden was in charge. You paid the fee and your pass was stamped. You were expected to do some chore as assigned to assist with the care of the hostel. The cost to stay was minimal, worked on a scale. The scale was as follows: Level 1 you got hot showers, Level 2 you could get a hot shower if you put a 5p piece in the slot, Level 3 the warden dumped a bucket of water over you.