Okay, this is my first time posting attachments, so let's hope it works.
And I hope this makes sense to you.
This is how lined garments were constructed in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Place shell fabric and lining fabric (shell is dark brown in the pics) of one panel wrong sides together. Place next panel's shell fabric right sides together with first panel's shell fabric, and same next panel's lining fabric right sides together with first panel's lining fabric. Make sure you align the edge where they are supposed to be seamed together. Stitch that seam, omitting the last inch of the seam at each end.
IMG_20230401_151518.jpg
Press panel 2 fabrics towards each other and away from panel 1. Add any subsequent panels in the same way.
IMG_20230401_151946.jpgIMG_20230401_152744.jpg
Slip stitch the lining fabric panels to each other at the ends of the seams you just did, and slip stitch the shell fabric panels in the same way.
IMG_20230401_153008.jpg
Now press the hem edge of the shell under. Press the hem edge of the lining under, just a smidge deeper than the shell hem.
IMG_20230401_153217.jpg
Stitch the lining to the shell. The needle should go all the way through to the right side of the shell fabric, so the hem functions as a top stitch. This is called prick stitching. Keep the prick-stitches small so they are not obvious from the outside.
IMG_20230401_153327.jpgIMG_20230401_153453.jpg
Final pic is of a wool waistcoat lined with midweight linen, and sewn with a fairly coarse linen thread.
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