Jacobite era kilt hose - knitted or sewn ?

[figheadair]

I was simply replying to the original question -

"Hello all !
I have a question about kilt hose of the 1740 Jacobite era ....
Those who could afford hose, did they only have hose sewn from tartan fabric ? Or did knitted hose in that period already existed ?
Thank you in advance for any information !
Smallpipe"

I interpreted the question as being -
did they only have hose sewn from tartan fabric ? Or did knitted hose in that period already existed ?

The question in the OP could be interpreted as assuming that people wore Highland clothes all the time. That might have been the case for the poor Highlander for whom the plaid was probably his only garment. But for gentlemen, especially travelling outside of the Highlands, and possibly in it at times, they would have worn standard European dress of the time.

In terms of Highland clothes, we know that cloth hose were widely worn. We also know that knitted stockings existed at the time. What we don't have evidence of, so far as I know, is that knitted hose were worn with Highland clothes. If they were, one might reasonably assume them to have been plain, rather than diced or tartan, as they would have been far simpler to fashion. I cannot think of a portrait that shows plain hose.

[Steve Ashton]

Peter, you are infinitely more knowledgeable on Highland Dress than I am.

But I know history and history shows us that knitting is very old. Knitted footwear is old. Knitted stockings are old.
History also shows us that knitted stockings were worn by the majority of people in the Western world from the Renaissance up until today. They were everywhere and could be self knit or purchased inexpensively by just about everyone. By 1600 polished Cotton Lisle from Balbriggen were so common that the name Balbriggen became a catchname for "everyman hose" like Q-Tip, Zipper, and Kleenex would become later.

[DCampbell16B]

This thread got me to go dig my cloth hose out as an example. I made these about the same time as OCR, late '70s and from the same pattern. (And was pleasantly surprised I could still get them on ) The tartan is fairly light weight. Based on my experience, a heavier, but somewhat looser weave would wear and fit better with this pattern. The cloth hose that figheadair posted are made from a different pattern.

For what it is worth:
https://postimg.cc/NLb266c4

https://postimg.cc/8sTrfyqc

[figheadair]

Not kilt hose per se, but of the period. Extract from Scottish Late Seventeenth-Century Male Clothing (Part 2): The Barrock Estate Clothing Finds Described

Man's woollen stockings (NMS: H.NA 413): Figures 6 and 10
Although both stockings survive in part, the more complete one is shown in the pattern diagram (Figure 10). Characteristically of hose cut from cloth, the stocking has been cut on the bias, which allows it to take up the shape of the wearer's leg. The stocking pieces that survive are the main lower leg covering which has a tongue-shaped piece which lies over the upper foot, with two flanking long, narrow cuts (A, B) into which are inserted the tapered ends of two gusset pieces. The main seam, the centre back leg seam, is back-stitched then felled to one side. The gusset inserts are attached in similar manner. The upper section of each stocking is lighter in colour than the lower leg and foot section, which is much darker. The stockings would once have had soles, but these are now missing, perhaps worn out.



Figure 6. Stockings, c. 1696. Wool. Edinburgh: National Museums Scotland, H.NA 413. © National Museums Scotland.

The stocking pattern, although incomplete, resembles remarkably some hose found at Alpirsbach Abbey, Alpirsbach, southern Germany, and which date from the early sixteenth century.18 The presence of hose immediately suggests the presence of shoes of some kind, no matter how primitive, and fragments of leather footwear were found with the Barrock clothes (Orr).19

Henshall noted that the fabric is a 2/2 twill weave. The warp is Z-spun, 27 threads to the inch, the weft is Z-spun, 24 threads to the inch. She added that the tops are felted, while the fabric below is less so.20

[Panache]

I have been thoroughly enjoying this thread.

The OP didn't mention social status of the wearers of the hose and, though perhaps a false assumption, I would think that knitting would be an incredibly commonplace skill whereas weaving would be more specialized and require more skill and equipment.

So with that thought in mind, it seems that those of higher status would have tartan cloth hose where the material was purchased and sewn to the wearer's measurements while those of lower status would have knitted hose because they would be cheaper and more readily available.

(As a general rule, when we look at portraits from the past they tend to be of people of means. So using them as an example for everyone can be problematic)

Carry on all!

Cheers

Jamie

[figheadair]

I have been thoroughly enjoying this thread.

The OP didn't mention social status of the wearers of the hose and, though perhaps a false assumption, I would think that knitting would be an incredibly commonplace skill whereas weaving would be more specialized and require more skill and equipment.

So with that thought in mind, it seems that those of higher status would have tartan cloth hose where the material was purchased and sewn to the wearer's measurements while those of lower status would have knitted hose because they would be cheaper and more readily available.

(As a general rule, when we look at portraits from the past they tend to be of people of means. So using them as an example for everyone can be problematic)

Carry on all!

Cheers

Jamie

I understand your reasoning but don't agree with your deduction. Using that logic, poorer people would have worn knitted clothes too.

[Distaff]

My understanding is that while knitting is old in the Middle East, it only came to Europe in the 1300's. Richard Rutt's History of Hand Knitting would probably be the best printed resource to check. Been meaning to order the book for years - should probably just DO that!

Nalbinding can look like knitting, but isn't. It uses one needle, something like a large sewing needle. Never practiced it, so can't elaborate. I have read that museums have had to correct the descriptions on some items as they had been labeled as knits, in error.

From my casual research, woven hose (cut on the bias? well, that is what seems to be shown in the paintings - de-facto argyle?) sewn up the back were very common. Knitting is not only time consuming, but uses more wool yarn than would be in a woven item. Raw wool is time consuming to prepare and spin. It would have been more economical to make hose from wool cloth that had been damaged in places. Putting various colors in yarn, makes the fabric bulky. You can weave in the ends (time consuming), or carry the yarn across the back, but you will have extra bulk. I agree with the previous poster - I think it is unlikely that the hose in the paintings were knitted.

People in the past also commonly wrapped their legs in long lengths of woven cloth. Seems odd to me, for footwear, but narrow cloth, down to "tapes" of 1/4 inch were used extensively as belts, trim, and fasteners in the past, and even poor people wove a lot of those. Those looms are easy to make and transport. (I'll end here, before getting further off topic...)