This first picture is not my work, but my repairs have been only slightly less visible when trying to sew through the fold and two layers underneath.
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The problem I have is that working from hip up, if I don’t want to sew through the lining and interfacing underneath, I have to have the needle at an angle. This means either catching only a thread or two of the first layer…
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Or catching both layers, but making too large (it seems to me, anyway) of a stitch.
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Pictures of what I did instead coming up.