quality vintage sporran chain

[Troglodyte]

I've read of those clips referred to as "dog clips". They are certainly much nicer than the single piece of bent metal. Any idea when the switch was made to the cheaper one-piece clips? It might be a useful clue for dating purposes if I knew.

Are the flattened links also a sign of quality?

They probably have a proper name, but the fancy clips are usually known as 'Albert swivel clips' as they are the kind of clip used by jewelers for making pocket-watch chains, which are known as 'Alberts'. A search on eBay using that term usually brings up plenty of options.

The flattened chain is known as 'curb' chain, from its common use on horses bridles where it acts as a curb for the bit.

This is easy to find in all kinds of sizes and spacing, but the sort to look out for is the 'diamond cut' version that has the two outside surfaces milled flat and polished. These often have the links closer together, and they lie very neatly over the kilt.

Solid silver versions are prohibitively expensive (well, for me anyway) and the electro-plated nickel silver (EPNS or Sheffield Plate) have the habit of losing their silver plating and the nickel shows yellow where the plating wears off. Non-plated all nickel chains are an excellent option, as the metal polishes-up like silver if that is what you want, or develops a nice dull patina not unlike the 'antique finish' given to modern sporran cantles.

In terms of practical function, there is no difference between curb chain and the long-link sort, but the latter has a definite old-school look to them. There are different options with these, and may have a single round connecting link or tripple round connecting link arangement. Personal perference comes into play here.

These long-link chain-straps are sometime found in a kind of figaro construction, where the chain, with all its long and short links, are twisted and flattened like a curb-chain.

Another thing to look for is individually soldered links - a time-consuming process and so an easily recognised mark of quality.