Kilting in the Age of Ozempic (or, 5 yd vs. 8 yd)

[jsrnephdoc]

Vertically, I'm a pretty small guy. Horizontally, that used to not be the case.

I'm also a retired physician, and yesterday I read a very amusing post that talked about physicians attending annual meetings where they'd renew acquaintances, often at fancy dinners. It's been noted that a fairly common phenomenon these days is that docs are showing up for such affairs looking SMALLER than they used to, and not only that, but that when they gather at their fancy dinners, those same shrinking people obviously have shrinking APPETITES, with plates left laden with uneaten delicacies.

Being retired, I no longer attend those meetings, but I'm certainly aware of the phenomenon, having lost > 20 pounds and 5 inches of circumference during the last six months. Some kilts are now supported by suspenders; others (including my latest acquisition) will get their straps and buckles moved. But, I've ALWAYS been short, and many kilted Scotsman are much bigger than I vertically. One question that comes from all of this is "why should a little guy need 8 yds of fabric for a small body?" Said differently, are there differences in the basic CONSTRUCTION of what's called an "8 yard" vs. "5 yard" kilt?

[CBH]

I would also greatly appreciate a primer on kilt fabric yardage arithmetic.

My kilts have 36" waist, and are under 20" length. That's way under 1 square yard of finished surface area.

How is it possible to actually use over 8-10 times that amount of material in one kilt ?

Sure there are 2 aprons that overlap, and the pleats use material, but still...........

[Father Bill]

My understanding is that those yardages are inexact references to give an idea of how much cloth might be used. It will obviously vary based on the waist and hips of the wearer, but also on how best to pleat the kilt based on the sett, the pattern, and the size.
Simply put, a five yard kilt is pleated more broadly than an eight, but neither is exactly that.

[Pleater]

If you have 24 pleats pleating to the sett and the sett is 8 inches, that is 16ft, 5 and 1/3rd yards - from one fold to the next is one repeat of the sett, in a longer length kilt. In a shorter length one some of the pleats might be 'cheaters' to get two pleats from one repeat of the sett.

You then need to make two deep pleats to go under the aprons so they fall rather than separate or remain horizontal when sitting, the two aprons and a secure edge, perhaps with a fringe, so it is not difficult to use up a couple more yards.

I wear a black kilt as part of my morris kit and have a couple of different weights and lengths. It was not difficult to use 7 or 8 yards of fabric in each one.

Anne the Pleater

[jsrnephdoc]

I wear a black kilt as part of my morris kit and have a couple of different weights and lengths. It was not difficult to use 7 or 8 yards of fabric in each one.

Anne the Pleater

So, if one orders an "8 yard kilt," the construction will be different from what's made if one orders a "5 yard" kilt, and the kilt shop will use the appropriate length of fabric needed to use one or the other construction method, varying the amount of cloth based on the anatomic size of the individual, probably billing more for a woolen kilt made for a large individual than for a small individual. The number of pleats will be smaller on a "5 yard" kilt will be smaller and the individual pleats larger, whether the person is big or small. And, for a small person like me, an "8 yard" kilt may not need 8 yards of fabric, and for a large individual, an "8 yard" kilt may require 10 or 11 (and a "5 yard" kilt may consume 8).

[Pleater]

So, if one orders an "8 yard kilt," the construction will be different from what's made if one orders a "5 yard" kilt, and the kilt shop will use the appropriate length of fabric needed to use one or the other construction method, varying the amount of cloth based on the anatomic size of the individual, probably billing more for a woolen kilt made for a large individual than for a small individual. The number of pleats will be smaller on a "5 yard" kilt will be smaller and the individual pleats larger, whether the person is big or small. And, for a small person like me, an "8 yard" kilt may not need 8 yards of fabric, and for a large individual, an "8 yard" kilt may require 10 or 11 (and a "5 yard" kilt may consume 8).

From making my own kilts it seems that each one is a combination of luck and judgement.
To get a good placement of the sett on the apron might mean losing almost one sett if the tartan was cut just an inch shorter than the ideal for the waist measurement required, or there could be just enough to make a fringe.
If the kilt is for someone tall it might mean taking the waistband across the weft rather than the warp, to get the full 27 inches if the cloth is woven 54inches wide - modern machines can weave 60 inches, but not all tartan is made on them.

Some tartans have smaller setts than others, some have huge ones - some orders are for pleated to the stripe, and some are for alternating stripes 'ketchup and mustard' means alternating red and yellow, or I have seen alternating pleats with stripes and 'blanks' of the same background colour.

It is often the case that the maker will sit down and ponder after counting the number of setts and checking measurements - maybe two or three options occur. With luck after a few trial foldings and checkings it will become obvious what the best option will be, though sometimes it is the only one which will result in a satisfactory outcome.
My making has been from lengths of fabric I already have, or are already cut, so I would expect that anyone taking an order for a kilt would consider the option of advising the purchase of a shorter length than standard for a kilt made for a smaller waistline in a smaller sett, or even checking with the vendor where the sett will lie if making for a stout gentleman in a tartan with a larger sett and even requesting that the measurement be from a particular part of the sett and accepting any extra cost that might entail.
There are added complications with asymmetric tartans which need to be cut in one piece, and such things as fabric which has white patches which when folded form an X across the pleats.

It might seem complicated, but it keeps the little grey cells active.

Anne the Pleater

[jsrnephdoc]

It is often the case that the maker will sit down and ponder after counting the number of setts and checking measurements - maybe two or three options occur. With luck after a few trial foldings and checkings it will become obvious what the best option will be, though sometimes it is the only one which will result in a satisfactory outcome.

(and)

There are added complications with asymmetric tartans which need to be cut in one piece, and such things as fabric which has white patches which when folded form an X across the pleats.

It might seem complicated, but it keeps the little grey cells active.

Anne the Pleater

Thanks SO much for that illuminating discussion. I guess that what's needed is a bit more explanatory categorization on for sale websites; e.g., not just "5 yard" or "8 yard," but also more elaborate descriptions of construction methods. USA Kilts does that; e.g., they offer "top stitched" and "premier" 8 yard kilts, and their pricing interface contains modifiers for additional costs related to requiring more than 8 yards of material, or single vs. double width cloth. Another thing that often isn't mentioned is whether the bottom will be selvedge or hemmed. I suspect I'll be learning (or learning, then immediately forgetting) stuff like this for the remainder of my "autumn" years