Box vs Knife Pleats

[OC Richard]

Matt A.C. Newsome has got a new life, which may not include kilts, it seems:

https://medium.com/@macnewsome/about

https://www.catholic365.com/author/matthew-newsome/

Go Matt!!

Good for him, he seems to have plenty of irons in the fire.

[OC Richard]

Yes it seems due to the military continuing to add yardage to their kilts through the course of the 19th century more of each pleat's cloth would be hidden in a fold underneath.

I think that "box-knife pleat" name makes sense because the pleats look like box pleats on the surface but are sort of knife pleats (all the pleats overlapping in one direction) underneath.

[OC Richard]

IIRC I was told years ago that Matt was taught by Bob Martin, who did box pleats based on his personal research.

Thanks, I'd heard of Bob Martin but I didn't recall that he was the one who revived and popularised that style.

Four yards for coolness and less weight, and 16oz cloth for durability, rather than more yards of lighter cloth.

That's my preference too, though my route is 6 yard knifepleated ordinary modern kilts in 16oz fabric.

[figheadair]

Thanks, I'd heard of Bob Martin but I didn't recall that he was the one who revived and popularised that style.

Richard,

I assume you therefore don't have a copy of his booklet which deals with the development of the styles and includes his study of various military kilts?

[ShaunMaxwell]

I was lucky enough to get in on a super deal that Matt offered several years ago, before D.C. Dalgliesh changed hands... A custom weave four-yard box pleat for only $500 total. What a deal! Here's my Maxwell hunting box pleat that was the results of Matt's labors (it's probably my favorite kilt... very light weight and comfortable. I really like the "hidden" left hip strap):



Cheers,

SM

[NHhighlander]

Barb Tewksbury, of The Art Of Kiltmaking fame (and whose advice I followed to sign up to this forum) offers a free PDF supplement to her book, "that provides additional instructions for making a traditional box pleated kilt." On page 7 of this document is a diagram with 4 different pleating styles, as well as a lot of details regarding the evolution of knife pleated kilts in history.

Her website will be found at https://www.theartofkiltmaking.com/l...iltmaking.html , the link to this PDF is at the bottom right. If you must just get the document right away, it can be found in https://www.theartofkiltmaking.com/files/126367176.pdf though I earnestly encourage anyone interested in kilts to visit the website itself, more info than I would imagine is there.

[CBH]

Thanks for sharing !!

That really shows off the box pleats. I love that sporran too !!

[Jock Scot]

When this conversation about pleats was going on, here on this website, all those years ago. I can't say that I was much interested in kilt pleats then and I can't say that it interestes me now. However, each to their own.

[jsrnephdoc]

Matt A.C. Newsome has got a new life, which may not include kilts, it seems:

https://medium.com/@macnewsome/about

https://www.catholic365.com/author/matthew-newsome/

From his website, it looks as though he still sells lovely kilt pins from Margaret Morrison and also some gorgeous diced hose from House of Cheviot

[Bill Catherall]

From his website, it looks as though he still sells lovely kilt pins from Margaret Morrison and also some gorgeous diced hose from House of Cheviot

Matt's website is my website now. When he moved on from making kilts and selling kilt hose I bought his inventory and domain from him. New company name, but same web domain.

On the topic of box pleats, yes, there's a difference between the military box pleat and the wide box pleat. I find the 4-5 yard wide box pleat kilts quite comfortable. Light enough for hiking. Here's a photo of me at the summit of Mt St Helens in my Scott green weathered 5-yard box pleat kilt.