Howie Nicholsby: “the Rebel Kiltmaker”

[TheVintageLibertine]

I came across this video on YouTube about the owner of Twenty First Century Kilts. His designs may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but I found it very cool that he who understands, appreciates, and respects (and sells) traditional highland wear while also trying to create something unique.

https://youtu.be/WXzXP6kZgpc?si=DLjrAxI1BdYUxQz-

[bookish]

I watched that video a week or so after it came out. I thought it was pretty interesting. I've been mulling over fashion and highland wear for a little while now. I'm still a newbie, as it were. But I wear the kilt a fair amount, and I'm still pondering every time I put one on about how it fits into the greater tradition and how it fits in my world. Howie Nicholsby seems to do that as a maker. It sounds very much like he is contextualizing his work and his style with the tradition.

In all the "fashion shots" I have seen of his style, I only ever seen unlaced boots with gobs of sock on top. It looks edgy and cool as a fashion statement, but it must be absolutely difficult to walk around with boots wide-open at the top. I do wonder about those "leg warmers." Kilt hose and socks are integral to a kilted look, whether wearing a tee shirt or daywear, and I think that we ought to have some more interesting options to play with.

Also, the outfit at the end surprised me a bit when I watched the video. It seemed like he was putting on the kilt equivalent of morning dress. I can't abide by the tie not having the front longer than the back, though!

[Jock Scot]

I have just watched the film. To my surprise, I really enjoyed it! Well worth putting a few minutes aside to watch it.

[Jock Scot]

Also, the outfit at the end surprised me a bit when I watched the video. It seemed like he was putting on the kilt equivalent of morning dress. I can't abide by the tie not having the front longer than the back, though!

Howie said, somewhere near the end of the film, that he was going to a Garden Party at Holyrood, a very smart event (By Invitation Only) usually attended by Royalty, probably The King. So Howie's attire would be entirely appropriate, in a modern sort of way.

[TheVintageLibertine]

I have just watched the film. To my surprise, I really enjoyed it! Well worth putting a few minutes aside to watch it.

Howie said, somewhere near the end of the film, that he was going to a Garden Party at Holyrood, a very smart event (By Invitation Only) usually attended by Royalty, probably The King. So Howie's attire would be entirely appropriate, in a modern sort of way.

I was also surprised to enjoy the video as much as I did, since I very much dislike the whole utilikilt and kilts as fetish wear vibe.

When Howie explained wanting to wear kilts daily in a more casual/sporty and practical way, his “Twenty First Century” designs in denim, with added pockets, and paired with Nike Jordans really clicked, especially when contrasted with his morning wear equivalent for a garden party at Holyrood Palace.

Again, I just think it’s very cool that someone is advocating for highland dress to exist in a contemporaneous, evolving context rather than remaining fixed and unchanged since the Edwardian period.

[MacKenzie]

Again, I just think it’s very cool that someone is advocating for highland dress to exist in a contemporaneous, evolving context rather than remaining fixed and unchanged since the Edwardian period.

Have a look at Siobhan MacKnzie's work

An Artistic Exploration of Highland Heritage

Siobhan Mackenzie reinvents classic styles into luxury contemporary fashion for menswear and womenswear.

https://siobhanmackenzie.com/

[OC Richard]

Highland Dress...remaining fixed and unchanged since the Edwardian period.

Your point is valid, though you're off by an era.

As it happens both Highland Evening Dress and Day Dress underwent an extensive transformation between 1910 and the 1920s.

Here's Edwardian Evening Dress compared to post-WWI Evening Dress.



For whatever reason after WWI Highland Evening Dress became almost completely de-accessorised.

By the 1920s the look was sleek and understated.

Actually the process can be seen to be starting just before WWI, though not yet complete.

Here are gents in Evening Dress c1913. The long hair sporrans, plaids, and dirks remain.



About Day Dress, which in Edwardian times was called Morning Dress, here are .1905 illustrations showing the classic Edwardian look.



And a c1913 photo. Note the flat bonnet, high collar, old-fashioned cut to the jacket, and spats.



After WWI Highland Day Dress also changed quite a bit, and hasn't changed appreciably since.

The cut of the jacket, the shape of the bonnet, the style of shirt and tie, styles of sporran, and style of hose are still the standard current forms.

A testament to this is how these 1930s illustrations from The Scottish Tartans are still used in the current edition

[TheVintageLibertine]

Your point is valid, though you're off by an era.

Yeah, the kings between 1901 and 1936 kinda all blend together in my mind. I meant to say since the late 1920s or early 1930s. The biggest change I can think of in the last 100 years is the Prince Charlie, which was invented somewhere in the 1920s, I think.

Thanks for posting the side-by-side pictures. I love the old fashion plates from catalogs!