Wow, all the pleats in one day?? I have it down to about 20 minutes/pleat (closer to 30 with measuring and all), but I could never get them all done in one day!!!!

I don't have the book in front of me, but will have a look-see when I go home for lunch.

In the case of three thicknesses only, IIRC, that may be referring to NOT going through to the outside of the kilt.... Is this on the underapron, on the deep pleat? Some of the stitching, if it went through all the layers of fabric, would not allow the kilt to move correctly when worn, I think.....

I am just doing the inverted pleat on kilt #2 right now, so am going to be working on this part myself. I have to get the hem done first, but the apron shaping will be soon.

It is also more helpful to use 'underapron' and 'apron' instead of right and left, because right and left can change depending on how the kilt is oriented!