Quote Originally Posted by Alan H
We have an ace in our pocket, Canadian "in" with Fraser and Kirkbright that bypasses the Scottish Weaver. I'm also researching what the customs & duty is from ENgland to Canada for woolen goods.
That all sounds good. Does this mean you are now thinking of exporting the cloth from England to Canada, rather than to the US? Maybe the Commonwealth relationship will make a difference to the tariff -- hopefully!

I don't know anything about Canadian tariffs. But the following applies to US Customs, and the countries in question all use the Harmonized Tariff System, so I imagine there will be much that's the same about classifications of goods.

Remember in dealing with US Customs that they will not always classify something the same way they tell you they will! If you get a quotation on a rate, get the Harmonized Tariff Schedule classification (6- to 10-digit 'HS Number' -- the more digits you can get them to commit to, the better; the last 2 of 10 digits are specific to the import country) for that rate and be sure to tell the weaving mill to use that exact code when they fill out the Customs forms. Also keep in mind that there are brokerage fees in addition to the tariff -- if the package is sent by UPS, DHL, etc., you can possibly get them to give you a quote on the brokerage, but again, it may not be entirely reliable! And... it depends to some extent on the tariff charged. (Sort of a Catch-22 situation.)

I think Canadian textile goods are duty-free because of NAFTA. But the only textile produced in the UK that has any applicable special trade agreement is Harris Tweed.

If you bring textiles in from the UK, however, it's definitely not free! For some reason, upholstery fabrics come in cheaper than identical fabrics considered to be for other purposes. 13-oz. and 16-oz. tartan is suitable for upholstery and indeed is often used for such, so if you can get it classified that way, you'll be miles ahead (7% vs. 25% or more), unless the weight moves it to another class where upholstery material is not given a break. However, if the Customs agent that books them in considers the goods to be fungible with another class, they are just as likely to put them in that class and charge the higher rate.

I think the classification that could conceivably be the best, if they will accept it, is 'Carded Woven Tapestry/Upholstery Fabric >= 85% wool/F.A.H. > 300g/m sq.' (F.A.H. is 'fine animal hair'.) The HS number for that is 5111.19.10.00 and the rate is 7%. But if they decide it's not upholstery fabric, the rate goes to 25% or 28.30%, and can go as high as 68.5% under some conditions (I don't know what they are, so if anyone knows, please enlighten me!). Most likely they will classify it as 5112.19.60.50, 'Woven fabric of combed wool >= 85% wool/F.A.H. > 270g/m sq. <= 340g/m sq.', and that will make the duty 25%.

There are a lot of factors to be considered in classifying a product. With textiles, there is not only the fibre content (in exact proportions, if of mixed sources -- in some classes of wool fibres, even the breed of sheep is specified) but also the diameter of individual fibres in microns, the weight of the fabric in grams per square metre, the monetary value per kilogram, the intended use of the material, whether it's hand- or machine-woven, and the width of the loom, if hand-woven. The mill is not going to tell you all this, if they even know it, so it becomes somewhat of a guessing game -- not only what the content, etc., actually is, but what the agent who receives the shipment will consider it to be, and how the broker who is filing all the paperwork supports the documentation.

I'm not trying to present difficulties. Don't blame me, blame Customs!

I completely gave up on trying to find an HS code for importing a kilt. There are a zillion kinds of garments listed in the Schedule, but the kilt is not amongst them! Nor is there any way to classify it as a skirt for men. All skirts and skirt-like garments are classified as female attire. So, my kiltmaker sends me kilts individually by postal mail and we hope for the best!

Does anyone know if consignees in the UK and/or Australia get a break on the tariff and/or VAT on exports of Canada, since it's a Commonwealth country? If they do, then the best thing for Hamish, Graham, et al, to do is to have their kilts tailored in Canada.

If the big Scottish weaving houses had any sense, they'd band together, like the Harris Tweed industry did, to negotiate a special deal on the importation of tartan fabric to the US (and Canada, if necessary). They have a lot of sales in North America. If it were possible to get tartan classified as a free import, the wholesale cost of the product would go down 25% right off the bat.