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Thread: Pleat Depth

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    2nd April 05
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    Smyrna, Tennessee, USA
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    Thanks to everyone for their input. I have looked over the material once more and decided to pleat to the stripe. I tested a particular stripe and think it will look pretty good.
    The only problem now is these two light lines on one side of a dark line. Since the material is doublewidth, I half to cut and put the two ends together. And the only way to get everything to match up is to flip one side upside down, making the slevedge on the top in one half and the bottom on the other. So now I'm looking heming the bottom. My hats off to those skilled artisans who do this everyday.
    Wish me luck.

    HeathBar

  2. #2
    Join Date
    10th November 04
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    Oh no, an asymmetrical tartan!!!???

    I went through this with my Hunting Stewart kilt.......

    A bit of a pain, but not that bad..... I didn't have to 'flip' it, I had to offset the two pieces, about 1/2 a sett, and hem the bottom, as there was no selvedge left at all after getting them trimmed to match properly.....

    I don't think I quite follow, though, about the 'upside down' comment.... Whatever you do, you MUST make sure that the twill lines match when you connect the two pieces... I think they must run like \\\\\\\\\\\ (but that is from memory at the moment) when looking at it right side up (top edge at tope edge in front of you)

    If your tartan is symmetrical, there should be no problems, whatsoever, you just rip it, turn it to the correct twill direction, line up the selvedge edge, and go. If you have an asymmetric tartan (there are very few, and I can't recall them, besides H.S. at the moment), you not only have to match the twill, but also the sett - this means not flipping the material at all, but after ripping, sliding it down until the sett matches, then ripping any necessary edges to make the lengths the same......

    Take your time, study the sett, and it will all work out......

    OK, to follow up, I made a little webpage which describes what I am trying to say here, hopefully, with words and pictures, the meaning comes throught

    http://webpages.charter.net/twjesse/asymmetric.htm
    Last edited by beerbecue; 28th May 05 at 08:11 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    2nd April 05
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    Twill Lines

    Thanks Beer for the heads up. I see what you mean about the twill lines. I've neverreally noticed them before. I guess its like grains of wood. You want to have everything going in the same direction.
    I don't know what I meant either when I said "upside down". Probably my "friday after work" brain misfired.
    Thanks for your help.

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