casual kilt pleated to stripe?

[KMacT]

...when I hand-tailor my four yard box pleated kilts, I always pleat to the stripe (unless someone tells me they prefer pleating to no pattern). I don't see how box pleats v. knife pleats would make a difference here. So I don't quite understand.

I'm not sure what your "I don't quite understand" is referring to, but since you followed up my post it might be to my comment about the number of pleats. If so, I offer the following:

All else being equal, my comments are intended to show that a larger waist and a smaller sett will produce *potential* for the largest number of pleats. I stand corrected, however. It's true that a smaller sett will lead to the potential for more pleats, but all else being unchanged a larger waist actually has the opposite effect.

On a four yard kilt there are only six feet of cloth at the back (where the pleats are). If the sett repeats every 6 inches, for example, then there can be a maximum of 12 repeats of that pattern in the two yards at the back (two repeats per foot). Therefore, the maximum number of pleats would be 12 pleats. Oddly enough, a larger waist would result in *less* cloth at the back and as such *decrease* the potential number of pleats (and also increase the size of each pleat). If one adds more cloth, then more pleats are possible (again, because more cloth end up at the back of the kilt and there are a greater number of repeats of the sett). If the sett is smaller, then more pleats are possible. These variables all work together:

More cloth = potential for more pleats
Smaller waist = potential for more pleats
Smaller sett = potential for more pleats

I think I have this right. Mind you, I know this only in theory, having never made a kilt (soon, soon...), so I bow to those with more actual experience than I. This certainly includes you, Matt.

Kevin

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Hey Kevin,

To put this REAL simply... a casual (or approximately 4 yard) kilt in the striped pleat configuration does NOT look like it does in a traditional. There are a few reasons that you need to consider.

1). The amount of fabric GREATLY affects the pleat depth and/or the number of pleats... as your math has noted. If the depth is compromised, the kilt won't really hold its form. If the pleats are wider for the compensation, the stripes will "muddle" together and look rather shabby. I've seen this too many times.

2). With the pleating being wider for the casual kilt, the taper on for the hips is even more evident. What that means is... the angle that the pleat needs to be drawn down to compensate for the increased size, is even MORE blatant with a wider pleat. It's quite hard to hide the increase... ESPECIALLY when you're limiting one side of the pleat with the stripe. "Field" or "Sett" pleating allows for some off-setting.

3). Thankfully, you're looking for wool. It tends to bend and "work" better than other fabrics when you need to sew it up. Wool will also "train" itself to stay where it's sewn. There are other fabrics that MAY sew-up just fine, but as soon as time goes by (or you wash it) the pleats will pucker, the apron tips will flare, or the sewing may even pull-out. THIS is a common problem.

I have a casual "4 yard" BearKilt in the Cape Breton tartan that, I dare say, is as beautiful as some 8 yarders our there. I doubt seriously that it's actually only 4 yards of material (knowing Bear) but it's still a casual that looks like a dream! Difference is... it's pleated to the field. It sure allows for some great hiding places for tapers!

[David Thornton]

I think I'm getting all of this, bear with me I'm a beginner.

I started all this four months ago & finally decided on a full blown tank and I'm VERY glad to have it. But, I won't wear it every day, any more than I would wear a pair of $600 slacks ( I assume there are some) every day. So I'm back on my original search, finding a kilt (2,3 who knows) that will look good and can be worn every day and I can afford (still haven't told the converted cost to the keeper of all things financial).

SWK heavy got great reviews, but I am too short to wear one. Ebay casuals are out. So I thought a nice 4-5 yrd casual, custom. I think you guys, based on your own experience, are telling me that I'm probably OK.?

Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Seems I learn (or at least read) something new every day.

David

[bear]

I'm making a 4 yard poly/viscose MacMillan kilt pleated to the stripe that is gorgeous!

[Doc Hudson]

I But, I won't wear it every day, any more than I would wear a pair of $600 slacks ( I assume there are some) every day.

Reminds me of a joke.

A young man had just graduated from a university with an MBA degree and went out into the big world to find his first job using his Business degree.

For the job search, he bought an expensive suit, and a pair of $300.00 Guicci shoes.

After he got a job, he continued to wear the Guicci shoes to work every day. After about three weeks, the shoes started to fall apart. So the young man went back to the Guicci store.

There he saw the salesman who sold him the shoes and started complaining about the lack of durability.

Salesman: "And you wore these shoes every day?"
Young man: "Yes! And in three weeks they wore out!"
Salesman: "Sir! These are $300.00 Guicci's! You don't wear them every day!"

I guess I know what you mean, but I wear my $150.00 PK daily.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

What I meant was that I don't understand why some kilt makers say that they cannot pleat a 4-yard kilt to the stripe, when I always pleat my 4-yard kilts to the stripe with no problem.
M

[chasem]

I'm hoping to grab some MacLachlan or MacEwen tartan soon, enough for a 4-yarder pleated to the stripe. At least I think I'll be able to do it... we'll see how she turns out.

[KMacT]

1). The amount of fabric GREATLY affects the pleat depth and/or the number of pleats... as your math has noted. If the depth is compromised, the kilt won't really hold its form. If the pleats are wider for the compensation, the stripes will "muddle" together and look rather shabby. I've seen this too many times.

Interesting. So what would be a good pleat width versus depth ratio?

I'm looking to sew a five yard 16 oz. wool kilt. The tartan has a 7.25 inch sett, so my calculations are that pleated to the stripe I'll have 15 pleats (on my 35 inch waist). Each pleat will be 1.16 inches wide and 3 inches deep. How will that hold its form and hang, do you think?

And by the way, I'm assuming that if pleated to the sett (rather than the stripe) it will still have the same number of pleats of the same size and depth.

Kevin