Hey Kevin,

To put this REAL simply... a casual (or approximately 4 yard) kilt in the striped pleat configuration does NOT look like it does in a traditional. There are a few reasons that you need to consider.

1). The amount of fabric GREATLY affects the pleat depth and/or the number of pleats... as your math has noted. If the depth is compromised, the kilt won't really hold its form. If the pleats are wider for the compensation, the stripes will "muddle" together and look rather shabby. I've seen this too many times.

2). With the pleating being wider for the casual kilt, the taper on for the hips is even more evident. What that means is... the angle that the pleat needs to be drawn down to compensate for the increased size, is even MORE blatant with a wider pleat. It's quite hard to hide the increase... ESPECIALLY when you're limiting one side of the pleat with the stripe. "Field" or "Sett" pleating allows for some off-setting.

3). Thankfully, you're looking for wool. It tends to bend and "work" better than other fabrics when you need to sew it up. Wool will also "train" itself to stay where it's sewn. There are other fabrics that MAY sew-up just fine, but as soon as time goes by (or you wash it) the pleats will pucker, the apron tips will flare, or the sewing may even pull-out. THIS is a common problem.

I have a casual "4 yard" BearKilt in the Cape Breton tartan that, I dare say, is as beautiful as some 8 yarders our there. I doubt seriously that it's actually only 4 yards of material (knowing Bear) but it's still a casual that looks like a dream! Difference is... it's pleated to the field. It sure allows for some great hiding places for tapers!