Tartan vs. Plaid

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I understood that "tartan" referred to the weave - under 2 threads, over 2 threads. That weave gives the distinctive diagonals when 2 colors cross. Most patterns that you think of as plaid are over one, under one. Also, they're generally not symetrical. I know there were a few non-symetrical tartans, but they really seem to have been an exception, more than the rule, at least since Victorian times when tartans as we know them really came to be developed. I remember reading that the non-symetrical Buchanan tartan was really the result of a misprint in a book that it was listed in.

A 2-over, 2-under weave is called a twill weave. Although tartan cloth woven for kilt making will be in a twill weave, tartans do not have to be twill, nor do twills have to be tartans. Look at your blue jeans. The denim used there is twill weave. 1-over, 1-under is called plaid weave. And tartans can be plain weave. In fact, usually when a tartan is woven in spring weight (or tie weight) cloth, is is plain weave.

Twill weave and plain weave refer to two different types of weaving. Tartan refers to a specific pattern of colors in the cloth. The two are independant factors.

Regarding symmetrical vs. assymetrical tartans. Most all tartans are symmetrical (this means that the pattern is reversed when it is repeated, making a pattern that is symmetrical 90 degrees). But you already mentioned one tartan that is assymetrical, the Buchanan. Yes, this did begin as a mistake, but there are many other assymetrical tartans.

Here is just a partial list:
Campbell of Argyll
Campbell Dress
Cumming Hunting (Buchan)
MacAlpine
MacDonald Dress
MacMillan Old
Malcolm
Stewart Hunting

I have also examined many old, unnamed tartans that were assymetrical. So the fact that they don't follow the general practice does not mean that they are not a tartan.

If you wanted to get down to the nitty-gritty of what defines a tartan, you would have to say it is a woven pattern in which stripes of different colors intersect each other, creating mixtures, or half-tones where they cross -- or a graphic representation of such a design (like the background of this forum).

But the difference between a "tartan" and a "plaid" is not the difference between two types of design. It's the difference between a certain kind of garment (plaid) and the pattern of cloth that the garment is made from (tartan).

Aye,
Matt
(Not "shooting anyone down", just dispensing knowledge!)

[Rob]

But the difference between a "tartan" and a "plaid" is not the difference between two types of design. It's the difference between a certain kind of garment (plaid) and the pattern of cloth that the garment is made from (tartan).

Aye,
Matt
(Not "shooting anyone down", just dispensing knowledge!)

Thank you Matt for being so patient in explaining this. The use of the word 'plaid', when what is really meant is 'tartan', seems to be confined to North America. No one in the UK would refer to tartan as 'plaid', and we (on this side of the pond) tend to smile in amusement when we hear Americans refer to plaid, when it is obvious that they really mean 'tartan'.

Rob (who wears a tartan kilt, but not a plaid)

[Planopiper]

Thanks, Matt for the information. I appreciate the careful explanation. It saves me having to do any real research on my own. I realize that a lot of what I've read is just other people repeating what they'd heard somewhere and doesn't have any more authoritative documentation. I think throwing out things like I did into a discussion and having them refuted by someone who knows what they're talking about is better than keping quiet hanging on to incorrect ideas.

[Hamish]

Thank you Matt for being so patient in explaining this. The use of the word 'plaid', when what is really meant is 'tartan', seems to be confined to North America. No one in the UK would refer to tartan as 'plaid', and we (on this side of the pond) tend to smile in amusement when we hear Americans refer to plaid, when it is obvious that they really mean 'tartan'.

Rob (who wears a tartan kilt, but not a plaid)

Rob, you took the very words out of my keyboard!

Like you, I have never heard the tartan referred to as 'plaid' by anyone here in the United Kingdom - never! Unfortunately, I do have to admit that those I have heard use 'plaid' when they mean 'tartan' have, more often than not, been North American brothers whom I should have expected to have known better in that they most frequently are kilt wearers!

Sorry Guys. It might seem that we Brits are ganging-up against you, but we are not. Honestly! It is truly the ways things are.

Thanks are due to Matt and Sav for explaining matters so clearly.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

You'll find here in the US that the average, non-kilt wearing citizen does not even know what tartan is. They use the word "plaid" for it consistantly, and mostly when applied to flannel shirts.

Those that are invovled in Scottish-American activities are more likely to know what a tartan is, but use the term pretty much only to refer to named Scottish clan or district tartans. Often I'll hear a comment (referring to a non-named tartan) such as, "Oh, that's not a real tartan, it's just a plaid."

Obviously, either use of the term plaid is incorrect. But those who actually take the time to learn about tartan traditions quickly learn the true story -- and forums like this are part of the educational process!

Aye,
Matt

[arrogcow]

Just for giggles, I looked up the definitions in Websters (sorry no Funk and Wagnals)

Plaid (n) [Gael. plaide, a blanket or plaid, said to be contr. from peallaid, a sheepskin, from pealle, a skin or hide]
1. a long piece of twilled woolen cloth with a checkered or crossbarred pattern, worn over the shoulders of Scottish highlanders.
2. cloth with a checkered or crossbarred pattern.
3. any pattern of this kind.

Tartan (n) [prob. merging of ME. tirtaine (from OFr. Tiretaine), mixed, fabric and ME. Tartarin, tarlayne (from OFr. tartarin, lit., cloth of Tartary), a rich material from China.
1. woolen cloth with a woven pattern of straight lines of different colors and widths crossing at right angles, worn especially in the Scottish Highlands, whereach each clan had its own pattern.
2. any plaid cloth like this.
3. any tartan pattern.
4. any article made of such a fabric. silk tartan; a silk textile having a tartan pattern.

Tartan (a) consisting of, made from, or resembling tartan; having the pattern of a tartan. tartan velvet; a velvet withe a short map and woven in tartan patterns

Oh and it is also a type of ship in Spanish and Italian.

Granted some of the info above is inaccurate, but it does explain whey people get confused.

Adam