narowed it down to 3

[akaussie]

Terry, I have seen them and they look good (about $200au +postage).
Thats yet another option to consider but I would be better off visiting the shop in melbourne (240kms away) and try a few of the ex hire ones first, therefore i know how it will fit before I buy it. I think that would be worth spending the extra $100 on if I go with the wool. Cheers Andrew

[Jimmy Carbomb]

With the "traditional" one that you're speaking of: as long as it's wool, the hips will be just fine.

There's a HUGE difference between the weave and "forgiveness" between PV and wool. The natural fibres in wool allow it to bend and breath. There's NOTHING better for a hand-sewn traditional. The PV is a wonderful alternative when it comes to casuals. The main reason for that is two-fold.

Firstly, the hand-sewns need to be bent and curved to develop a proper taper. It's not an easy thing to do, but is possible with wool. With PV, the taper often needs to be worked-in with angles in the pleating. Through time (and not much of it) the material will show the technique. I can't tell you how many people have asked me about this problem. If you look at one of Bear's kilts, his design allows for the pleats to hang freely, and this will easily compensate for the weave. It is a wonderful exception.

Secondly, PV is simply NOT wool. I own them both, and they can NOT be mistaken for one another. One of the biggest differences is that wool will "hide" the stitches, whereas PV will show them. What that means is... wool tends to stretch in time, and will encompass stitching to conceal it. PV, on the other hand, remains relatively rigid and allows the stitches to work their way to the surface.

PV in a casual design is a great alternative. Just be sure that the kilt maker understands about the weave, and has designs that will highlight the fabric... rather than work it in ways that it won't go. Look at Bear's casuals for a perfect example of how to work PV.

Wool in a formal kilt is where it's at. A trained kilt maker knows how to "work" the fabric and hide the stitches... and that's worth any increased expense. You're getting quality AND longevity with the cost.

[LordDamax]

Just a FYI, I have a SWK wool black watch... much more detailed pics than those at the SWK site are below:

Pics of my SWK Wool Black Watch

[akaussie]

Thanks for the link for those photos... that is one fine kilt.....I feel option 4 a'happenin here Cheers Andrew

[akaussie]

I just heard from the kilt company in melbourne regarding their ex rentals. they only come in waist sizes 29 or31 inch waist. I am about a 40 inch waist,

[emeraldfalconoflight]

Just a FYI, I have a SWK wool black watch... much more detailed pics than those at the SWK site are below:

Pics of my SWK Wool Black Watch

I guess the question is, are YOU happy with the SWK. I love their standard kilts, they look like wool, feel like wool, and if you need to the kilts are easy to fine tune. I think the only problem i have is the lengh i dont realy want to hem it cos I love the salvedged edge.

[akaussie]

Just found out (got measured at menwear store) I am a 41inch waist.
Stillwater kilts only come in 40 or 42 inch waist size. yet another small delema to work out, wether to get a 40inch and just do it up on the second buckle hole or wether to get a 42inch and move the straps.
any advice would be welcome i am leaning towards a solid black heavyweight kilt from them. cheers andrew

[davedove]

Just found out (got measured at menwear store) I am a 41inch waist.
Stillwater kilts only come in 40 or 42 inch waist size. yet another small delema to work out, wether to get a 40inch and just do it up on the second buckle hole or wether to get a 42inch and move the straps.
any advice would be welcome i am leaning towards a solid black heavyweight kilt from them. cheers andrew

Unless you're planning to gain some weight, I would get the smaller size and fasten it at a higher hole, that's what they're for. If you get the larger size and wear a belt, it will bunch up under the belt.