First Trad Kilt: an ongoing thread

[Barb T]

The real disadvantage in basting a bunch of pleats first is that you have to bunch up the fabric to stitch the pleats and you've lost the very real advantage of being able to run your left hand along the pleat as you stitch. Plus, it's tougher to put smooth and even tension on the pleat, and a pleat has to be basted at absolutely the perfect size, or errors compound.

I've found that lots of pins on each pleat solves the problem when people are having trouble and lets you do one pleat at a time. Good pinning is actually more accurate than basting and holds just as well _provided_ that you pin perpendicular to the pleat, not parallel to it. If you're pleating to the stripe, measure as you put each pin in to make sure that the stripe is, in fact, centered.

At any rate, if you're going to baste the pleats, at least baste only one at a time so that you can stitch through only what you need to stitch through and so that other pleats aren't in the way when you're trying to stitch.

Barb

[David Thornton]

Alan, does one wear a $5000 kilt or donate it to a museum? Kidding of course, but your discourse does make one appreciate a really nice hand made.
David

[Alan H]

The real disadvantage in basting a bunch of pleats first is that you have to bunch up the fabric to stitch the pleats and you've lost the very real advantage of being able to run your left hand along the pleat as you stitch. Plus, it's tougher to put smooth and even tension on the pleat, and a pleat has to be basted at absolutely the perfect size, or errors compound.

I've found that lots of pins on each pleat solves the problem when people are having trouble and lets you do one pleat at a time. Good pinning is actually more accurate than basting and holds just as well _provided_ that you pin perpendicular to the pleat, not parallel to it. If you're pleating to the stripe, measure as you put each pin in to make sure that the stripe is, in fact, centered.

At any rate, if you're going to baste the pleats, at least baste only one at a time so that you can stitch through only what you need to stitch through and so that other pleats aren't in the way when you're trying to stitch.

Barb

I did discover that pinning perpendicular to the pleat edge was a lot more accurate than pinning parallel to the edge. Yup, yup.

You know, I notice that this wool material is not as dimensionally stable as the stuff from Fraser and Kirkbright. I wonder if that's contributing to the problem.

Barb, i just basted the pleat down to one layer of fabric underneath, not all the way through to the next pleat. I'lllet you know how it goes.

[Barb T]

If the wool is flabby, it's more difficult, true. That could easily be part of the problem!

No matter how many thicknesses you baste through, the real issue is having a bunch of basted pleats in the way when you're trying to sew one. If you're going to baste, baste and stitch one at at time, and it will be easier. In the long run, though, I think you'll find it easier and more accurate to pin. But, it's up to you!!

Barb

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

Ok Barb, I have to ask, does flabby refer to the stiffness of the material (I have been called flabby, but that has an entirely different meaning)? Is Alan working with a material that is more flexible and bendable, or maybe flappy? I know that the cloth I am working with is very pliable, to the point I am not sure I will be able to get it to hold a pleat at all without sewing them down, and I also found it difficult to pleat as you described. Although, I was also trying to adapt your directions as I am left handed, so maybe it was partly that as well.

[Barb T]

Hi

Being lefthanded makes it harder, because the directions are written for a right-handed person. Somewhere on this forum, though, someone has described how they did it left handed, and they were quite successful.

I guess what I meant by "flabby" wasn't so much flappy as soft and a bit stretchy (the difference between a worn flannel shirt and a new, stiff, unwashed one). Kilting tartan has a rather stiff "hand", and, while it does stretch on the bias, it isn't squirrely to work with. Even folded on the bias, kilting tartan doesn't "skooch" when you try to stitch it. Ah, hell, I'm not doing a very good job describing this. If you had a piece of fabric that was loosely woven, the threads in the weave can slide around, making it harder to work with. I've also never tried to make a kilt from plain weave (rather than the twill that tartan's woven in), and I don't know whether that is harder to pleat. I suppose it could be.

Don't know if this helps or not.

Barb

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

Barb,

Actually, that does make it clearer in my mind. The reference to new and old flannel is a perfect visual. And that does make since why the material I am using is a little difficult to pleat. Glad it is plain and not a tartan, all I have to do is get the pleats to the right size and taper. It would be a real pain if I also had to match the pattern and keep it straight will sewing the pleats. Having a stiffer material would definitely make this easier. I was also surprised that you suggested pinning perpendicular to the pleat. When I do that, the material is so soft and loose, that it falls right off the pins. I have to pin parallel.

I will have to look for the instructions for a left hander, although for this one, I gave it up after one pleat and am just machine stitching it!

[Southern Breeze]

KCW, have you considerd starching the fabric to stiffen it?