Quote Originally Posted by Jeremiah
I think I want to start with contemporary, as it seems it would be easier to not have to line up the pattern. The first thing I want to try is to add pockets to my camo Sportkilt. Anything I should consider before I give it a shot?
To get the pleats to hang straight you have to get the folds on the straight of the material, that is following a single thread of the fabric. If the fabric is skewed - it can be twisted by being wound into a bolt at an angle, it needs to be pulled straight, gently, before you start to work on it.

It is actually much easier if there is something you can follow, such as a different colour thread, otherwise you need to measure and fold and check at several points.

I think if I had tried to use the fabric I am trying to work on now as a first kilt I would have given up - as the weave is not even. Measuring along the selvage and following a thread up to the waist gives me odd sized pleats at the waist, even though they are equal at the bottom. Also the fabric is stretching, so I will have to sew reinforcement into the waistband.

The frst two kilts I made were patterned and so there was no doubt about where the line of the pleat should fall or where is should be sewn down.

Before cutting your Sports kilt try fastening the pocket in place either tack it or pin it, put a few things into the pocket and walk around a bit to see how it works in that position. Take a look in a full length mirror to check if and where it bulges, and if it stays with you or swings madly at every step.